[TR] Darrington, Exfoliation Dome- Blueberry Route 10/28/2005

[Dirtyleaf]

Climb: Darrington, Exfoliation Dome-Blueberry Route

 

Date of Climb: 10/28/2005

 

Trip Report:

We climbed up the granite sidewalk at about 8am and made it to the base of the route in a little over an hour. The weather was moderate and sunny. A fun outing and some excellent climbing. We also had an epic: we got rained/snowed/darkness at the top of the route and ended up sleeping under a flake all night in the rain without bivy gear or rain gear...We had to huddle together to stay warm while being completely drenched. We almost got a fire going a few times but each time it started to go a gust of wind would put it out. We were shaking uncontrollably and and our bodies went completely numb. Alpine lessons were learned. I posted pictures in the photo gallery under (rock climbing).

 

Gear Notes:

Aliens:blue-orange. Camalots:.3-3

TCU's:#0-#1

HB offests, stoppers, 2 60m ropes

 

Approach Notes:

Granite sidewalk up. Bushwacking on the way down,(It was raining and snowing)

Edited October 30, 2005 by Dirtyleaf

[Dirtyleaf]

How do you post pictures?

[TrogdortheBurninator]

How cold do you think it got? Sounds miserable. Glad you guys are OK.

[hanman]

Wow- did you use the flake that is leaning against the wall on the Blueberry Terrace, or something on the summit proper? Either way, good job getting down safely - quite a schwack on both flanks of the G Sidewalk.

 

MH

[catbirdseat]

You were at a disadvantage being there for the first time. It's nice to have someone along who knows the descent route so you can do it in the dark.

 

I'm wondering where all the time went. You got an early start (8 am). I've started as late as 11 am and still made it back before dark.

 

I've often imagined what it would be like to bivy up there and decided I never wanted to find out.

[ScottP]

Alpine lessons were learned.

 

Just curious, what lessons were learned?

 

 

I'm wondering where all the time went. You got an early start (8 am). I've started as late as 11 am and still made it back before dark.

Did you climb the route on a day when the sun sets around 6:00 pm?

[hanman]

Actually, MattP and I found a planned bivy in January quite scenic. Unplanned...brrrrrr.... For a rapid descent from the SUMMIT I would suggest the west slabs to Westward Ho line. 5 thirty meter raps with fixed anchors/chains, followed by 5 50 M raps (down Westward Ho) to the start of the butress. I have descended this route recently in 50 minutes (summit to butress toe).

 

MH

[Dirtyleaf]

My parner is new to traditional climbing so the pitches he led took a long time. Too long.

[mattp]

Sounds like the "full on" Darrington experience. Those who've only been up there to bake in the sun don't know what they've missed.

[dbb]

wow, nice epic! That must have been character building

 

I rapped from the terrace this summer down to the west slabs and westward ho!. It was, in my opinion, the easiest way off the terrace for people climbing the blueberry route. You arrive back at your backs without having to hike over from the jacob's ladder area, and the rapps are all generally low angled and easy.

 

To doit, you climb up and right from the top of the routes, and find a solid slung tree on the edge right by the base of the wall above. One double rope rap brings you to the slung tree w/ the big steel ring on the West slabs. A couple raps more and you are at the top of the Ho.