MCash Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 What is the correct start to this route? You can go up a crack just left of the splitter above, traverse in on a flake from the right, or traverse in off jugs from the far left. All three appear to be used. Is the right crack out? It seams like the 10D grade means you can only climb on the steep thin hands splitter on the left. It is obviously a lot easier if you can bearhug the detached column using the handcrack on the right. 1 star? Come on. That thing is good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 1 star? Come on. That thing is good! For about 35 feet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 yes... 3 stars. its a cliff use whatever you want...cruxy down low, sustained up high... if you haven't already go check out pumpline 11a awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 I tried Pumpline last year and it scared the crap out of me. I got half way up, then ended up A0ing to the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 Thanks for the feedback on La Cucaracha. My guess is that the crack just left of center is correct and the crux of the route is right near the ground. Some corrections to the guidebook: 1. Gear to 2.5", not 1". There are a couple perfect hand jambs on it. 2. The bottom starts as wide fingers then goes to thin hands. There are no tight thin finger cracks on it. 3. 3 stars quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Nice climb, but I don´t no about 3 stars. I thought the bottom overhanging, funky start was harder than the top. Sor sure a nice route, although short. Zig Zag Crack on Alphabet is a better route close to the grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 z-crack is a good'un too...i think its a 2 hard moves kinda climb...but after cruxin you get to reel in great jams to the top...stars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 La Cucaracha, 3 stars? So it's almost as good as Outer Space or as good as Orbit, right? Pumpline is a way better route... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 Orbit sucks. 1.5 good pitches and the rest is crap. Deb's Crack gets 2 stars and that thing is like 20 feet high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Debs Crack is good, but I thought hard. Has anyone tried Willians 12? For a good destination for harder cracks do Radio Sex, Scholar with a Dolar and Lazy Boy. All really good routes and all next to each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Orbit sucks? hmmm, gotta disagree with you there. Deb's and La Cucaracha are of similar ilk, 2 stars seems more than enough for both... Carnival Crack, Leap of Faith, and the Original Route on Warrior Wall are all 2 star 10d's that make both Deb's and LC seem, well, like 1 star routes. It's awesome that you're amped about it but just tryin to keep it in perspective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Williams 5.12 is like the easiest 12 ever. Its more like 11b. WTF, even I could top rope it. Therefore it can't be anywhere close to 5.12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Williams 5.12 is like the easiest 12 ever. Its more like 11b. WTF, even I could top rope it. Therefore it can't be anywhere close to 5.12. Can you top rope it with 3 feet of slack? Or are we talking about a sport-climber's top rope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 It was like 10 years ago. I just remember it seemed easier than Deb's Crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 As top ropes go, Willy's Twelve is easier than Doin' The Dishes but I thought it was challenging. Nice work. Deb's Crack is 5.10. It probably goes in double boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 It'd be probably easier in double gloves too but tape is aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Willy's 12 a one move wonder you can bypass if your'e tall enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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