Mt. Redoubt Route Information

[Dante]

Does anyone have any experience climbing Mt. Redoubt? I am interested in the NE face, and can't find much information on the route after the first 700 foot ice/snow gulley which apparently leaves you around 7200', and 1700' short of summit. Route looks like it goes up from there on class 4/5 rocks, or short traverse up and over notch east of summit and then drop down and head west to find route up south side of summit. That being said, I am curious as to better descriptions on both route options. Thanks.

[Dru]

Four sections

 

1)glacier travel to get to ice apron

2) ice apron ( the 700' you mention)

3) snow arete

4) finishing pitches (two options)

 

1) can be the crux late in the year like September when the snow has melted. avoid cravasses, cross schrund where applicable, gain 2)

 

2) climb 250m of snow and ice "up to 60 degrees" but mostly 50 degrees. if its late in the year you can climb on the left edge allegedly and place rock pro, or climb 4th class rock on the left.

 

3) move up the easy snow/ice arete above the apron with good exposure on both sides

 

4) either do a mixed traverse left into a couloir and climb it about 300m to the summit ridge, or go straight up rock from the top of the snow arete. this is what i did. we followed a crack/ledge system on the right wall of the couloir -for 8 pitches of rock up to 5.7. Ok in plastic boots. doing the mixed traverse and couloir would have been about 100X faster than the stupid rock pitches.

 

from wherever you top out (couloir or rock) the summit is a fair ways away andhigher (3rd class sscrambling). the fastest descent goes south fronm the top of the couloir so leave all your gear where you top-out on the ridge, run tag the summit, come back, grab your gear and descend.

 

oh yeah - everybody says this - and it is true - but no one pays attention - WHEN YOU ARE HIKING IN AND YOU COME OUT IN THE MEADOWED BOWL BELOW THE FACE, CIRCLE WAY AROUND ON THE LEFT, DONT HEAD STRAIGHT FOR THE FACE cause there are about 6 waist deep stream crossings that are too wide to jump across and its tedious and damp crossing them.

[Lowell_Skoog]

Or bring a pair of aquasox and just head straight across the swamp toward the peak.

 

Does circling left really work? I tried it sort of half-heartedly a while back and ran into ugly brush in addition to the streams. Maybe I didn't go far enough.

 

Anyway, going straight across works well if you don't mind wet feet.

 

Finally, the schrund at the base of the ice apron has gotten really bad in recent years. Go early in the season.

[Dru]

Lowell if you continue like you are going to Spickard and then cut right once you are past all the brush, your feet stay dry. Looking down on it from the route you can see the bush-free path. We plotted our way out that way. That said we were there early July and there was still snow where later there might have been more bush.

[Dante]

Thank you very much for the information. Much appreciated and I'll keep it left, both on the approach and into the mixed traverse post arete rather than up the crack. Cheers.

[wayne]

Enjoy the approach , It is one of the finest in the range!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Anyone wanna do it? I will lead it all if I can get in there. Just have to pln it b4 rockies.........

[Dennis_Harmon]

Sure Captn, I'll do it with you. When?

 

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I actually know Dennis Harmon