Buckner - N. Face

[MountainMan]

Myself and 2 others climbed the N. Face of Buckner this weekend. The Boston Glacier is in beautiful shape ... we had no problem traversing the glacier from Boston Peak to the base of the N. Face. We camped on the Boston Glacier just below ripsaw ridge and left camp at 6:30 this morning to traverse to the base of the route. On the face the snow was quite soft, so there was little protection, but the views were spectacular (Thunder Basin, Primus and Tricouni, Jack, Eldorado, Boston, Sahale). It started raining on us at about 7800', and it was still raining on the summit. Since the summit was clouded in, and we felt (and heard) static electricity, we stayed on the summit just long enough to sign the summit register and headed down the Southwest side for the traverse back to Sahale Arm. Once we dropped down onto the Davenport Glacier the sun came out and Buckner was completely unobscured. If you're looking to do the N. Face, now is a great time.

[snafflehound]

Good job! I take it a second tool wasn't needed? Did you get a look at the gap between Buckner and Booker? I'll be going over it to Park Creek in 2 weeks if it looks like a go.

 

[ 07-07-2002, 09:50 PM: Message edited by: snafflehound ]

[MountainMan]

I didn't get a look at the gap between Booker and Buckner because it was clouded in when we reached the summit, but I suspect with the conditions that we encountered that there wouldn't be a problem getting to Park Creek. There's still quite a bit of snow up there for July, but things were melting out rapidly. I used crampons and a 75cm Grivel Air Tech. No second tool needed ... although a second tool would make things a little bit easier and more comfortable (I'm not sure it's worth the extra weight though). Good luck on your climb.

 

[ 07-08-2002, 04:04 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

[philfort]

quote:

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Originally posted by MountainMan:

Since the summit was clouded in, and we felt (and heard) static electricity, we stayed on the summit just long enough to sign the summit register.

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How dangerous is that? I don't think I would have stayed on the summit for a second if there was electricity around.

 

We started hearing buzzing while hiking along a nearby ridge-top on Sunday when the weather moved in. That was a first for me - yikes! We got the hell off immediately! But of course no lightning hit nearby (we did hear some thunder off in the distance). Overly paranoid? Is a little buzzing ok Only start worrying if your ice axe begins to glow?

[MountainMan]

I didn't actually hear or feel the buzzing/electricity ... my climbing partners did. This was after I had already signed the register. My account didn't accurately reflect the timing of the events. But even if I did hear the buzzing before I had signed the register, I probably would have gone up and signed the register anyway. It probably isn't the safest thing to do, but neither is climbing mountains.

 

Was that you descending from the summit of Sahale towards Boston Peak on Sunday at around 11:30ish?

[philfort]

Nope, we were over on the ridge between the Triad and Sibley pass.

[Cpt.Caveman]

 

 

[ 07-08-2002, 06:54 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[klenke]

I was atop Goode this weekend (Saturday). Nearly the entire upper reaches of Park Creek are still under snow.

 

I can't say what the specific conditions were for the saddle between Booker and Buckner 'cause I didn't look too closely. But if I come upon a photo in the near future, I'll clue you in more.

[snafflehound]

MtnMan, I'll be doing that climb on my way to Park Creek. Guess I'll take my small alpine hammer, maybe share it with my partner.

Thanks K, It looks OK on the map but Becky's description confuses me {not hard to do}. Photos would be a great help.

Last year on Stuart a big black cloud moved over us as we neared the summit. Our hair stood on end, we could smell the ozone and the rock, rope and gear were all buzzing. We got the fuck out of there fast! I've heard of too many people getting BBQed and seen too many glass puddles on the summits and domes of the sierra. After the cloud moved off ,we heard 4 loud BANGS and watched 4 fires just explode. Jack ridge {Cashmere Mt}, Icicle ridge, Cannon mtn and the area behind Snow Creek Wall. A front row seat and we were almost part of the entertainment!

S

[klenke]

Snafu-hound,

 

You might check here for a photo: http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b301e9a7c4d5 [this is from David Parker's Goode Photo Album]

 

In particular, look at pic numbered P1010055.JPG. This one is a picture of Buckner and Booker and the saddle between. Looks to me like the saddle would entail nothing more than a mid angle couloir downclimb or a snowy ledge traverse onto the Buckner Glacier on the Park Creek side.

 

The amount of snow you see there (he climbed Goode about 3 weeks ago, I think) in Park Creek is about the same as it is today, more or less.

[snafflehound]

THX K I think you're right. The photos are helpful. There'll be less snow when I get there but that's OK. It looks like those guys had a great trip!

S

[Agent_Cooper]

I'm thinking of doing the N. Face of Buckner this weekend. Has anyone been up there recently? What are the conditions on the N. Face? Is there much ice? Would you suggest a 2nd ice tool and/or ice screws? thanks...

[savaiusini]

cooper,

there is NO ice on that thing right now. Just did it saturday. screws won't do yo a bit of good either, unless you get a serious cold snap. you could bring a 2nd tool, but you probably won't use it as such. instead you'll probably only use it for balance wading-up the ankle-deep gunk

 

Check it: Mt. Jacky Buckner photos