jesselillis Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 ive heard some talk that the vibrations caused during a screamer openning can cause the same kind of transient gate openning that whapping the biner on a rock can, and that a number of ice climbers use light weight lockers either on rope end or both ends of their screamers. thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 Thought #1: Do a search cause this exact same topic was covered about 2 years ago. Thought #2 if you dont fall it doesnt matter whether you use locking biners or not summary: If it scares you, use a wiregate because their gates don't flutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 Frozen lockers are a pain in the ass to open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espirita Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 I like the sound when they open though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 I only use lockers with screamers when one is part of a roped solo anchor - Dru's suggestion of using wiregates with them is the way to go... The old, horizontally bar tacked "Air Voyagers" made a rapid rat-tat-tat sound like a machine gun going off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck_rocker Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 All non locking biners, even wiregates can flutter and come unclipped. I took a huge fall earlier this summer on mescalito and a biner on the cam below the one that caught me cam off. it was an oval wiregate bd. thank god that #0 metolius held me . anyhow use a locker if you are concerned but I think it is pretty rare for this to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 I took a huge fall earlier this summer on mescalito and a biner on the cam below the one that caught me cam off. it was an oval wiregate bd. thank god that #0 metolius held me . Holy Shit, Man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 All non locking biners, even wiregates can flutter and come unclipped. I took a huge fall earlier this summer on mescalito and a biner on the cam below the one that caught me cam off. it was an oval wiregate bd. thank god that #0 metolius held me . anyhow use a locker if you are concerned but I think it is pretty rare for this to happen. I have no doubt about what you said about the biner coming off and I have my suspicions that they can come unclipped easier than solid gate biner, but I'd have to disagree with you about wiregates fluttering. I have seen and heard numerous instances of the biner below the one that caught a fall coming off and even experienced a case of a biner coming off both the rope and the piece (Tricam) - but none of them were from flutter but rather from the loading process which seems somehow different for that second piece than the one that initiates catching the fall or the ones below it. Odd but it is pattern that I've seen over the years. The second one down is getting snapped hard from a "limp" position by both sides of the rope and no matter how it's clipped it can end up going through some pretty peculiar gyrations on the way to being fully loaded. I certainly can't prove any of this but over decades I've seen a pattern of some pretty strange things happen to the second piece down that doesn't seem to happen to the ones below it which typically just get lifted out if anything goes wrong with them. Where did you take the dive on Mescalito? The small Metolius' are pretty bombproof... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.