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Can anybody provide me with a DETAILED description of the Beckey-Schmidtke route on Nooksack Tower?

 

I find the Selected Climbs description and Beckey #3 descriptions to be vague. I do not trust the "Selected Climbs" after it recommended the Bedayn Couloir as a decent on Goode.....

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Posted

I have descended that route and I can't say for sure but I doubt you will need a detailed route description. The climbing is not all that technically difficult and I believe the route would be mostly pretty obvious, though I don't mean to suggest it is not a serious climb. Bring all your mountain skills, and be prepared for a long climb, but I would expect Nelson's description to be adequate. In my opinion, Nooksack Tower is one of the coolest things around and it is one of the most difficult peaks to descend in Washington.

Posted

here is what I remember about the route:

1) Go up big gully on the left side of the tower until you are able to cross onto a rock ramp on your right.

2) Head up and right taking the path of least resistance over a 40 foot semi-vertical wall.

3) You should see some slings up and to your left... head that way.

4) You don't want to get sucked too far right so wander to the left and head up towards another vertical and loose wall. Once on top of this you will be at some semi-vertical 4th class ramps that head right (below the N. ridge).

5) Keep following these ramps until they look really hard and merge with the N. Ridge.

6) Make a exposed step across a chasm and then onto the N. Ridge. Follow this to the summit.

7) Rappel the route and bring extra webbing to back up / create rap stations.

 

(we traversed the nooksack ridge over to shuksan after rapping into the col that seperates the tower from the ridge... that is exciting too.)

 

rack = 1,2,3, .5, .75 CAMs & set of nuts (both kind), 2 doubles, 8 shoulder lengths.

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