North Face of Shuksan

[Skisports]

Dose one know the conditons of the route... how about avy conditions last week ? anyone See any avy come down white salmon.

[savaiusini]

Haven't been up there in a couple weeks, but....I've climbed as well as skied NF of Shuksan this time of year. I think your best bet is an evening approach up the valley. Bivy/rest for a few hours at the base of the route. Then go for it! This way you'll avoid the some of the major hazards of the White Salmon during the day. If you're really worried about it, you could keep way to the left on your approach up the valley. As long as you get several days of freeze/thaw cycles and start the route early, you should be OK.

 

[ 05-01-2002, 04:44 PM: Message edited by: savaiusini ]

[Skisports]

How was skiing the NF did you have perfect conditions or did you lower each other down on belays here and there

[savaiusini]

April 1999, BIG snow year. We had perfect snow by the time we were coming down it in the afternoon. We simul-soloed the entire climb and descent. Probably one of my top 3 skis ever!

 

Are you looking to ski it also?

[Skisports]

I am considering it but perfect conditions its not worth taking a fall on shitty snow up there

Dave

[savaiusini]

Good snow or shitty snow...either way you don't want to fall.

 

I'd say your chances of good snow are pretty good as long as you get a few warm, clear days and freezing temps at night.

 

Best of luck!

[Jarred_Jackman]

Hey Skisports if you head up there I'd be really interested in a report about the conditions. I want to climb that route and would end up descending the W.Salmon, I think it might be best to summit really early and got down the glacier in the early morning hours to avoid any warming conditions from the days sun. Post your trip report if you would!

[Skisports]

I have done the route before it is a great route i did it three years ago in july the route was great the bushwack sucked. I told myself I would not do it again late season only early season soo here I am doing it early season I will be going up there next weekend. I was going to do it this weekend but weather moved on in.

[mattp]

JJ-

I wouldn't sweat about the sun on the White Salmon Glacier. I've done both routes at this time of the year and that was not a problem as the glacier faces north or northwest. Sun on the summit pinnacle can be an issue, however. If there has been any precip in the prior several days, the summit will be rime encrusted and it will start shedding its load by late morning on a sunny day.

Matt

[Crackhead]

I skinned up Table mountain and Artist point on Wed. The snow was perfect for traveling, but as the day went on the snow got super slushy. Go early so the route is firm, Shuksan has alot of snow on it right now. It looks Super. I'm available Tues. and Wed. next week... Drop me a line if you need another partner!