Big Kangaroo info

[goatboy]

Anyone out there ever climb any good routes on Big Kangaroo? Any recommendations for a good route?

Thanks,

Steve

[Stefan]

I have done the standard route on Big Kangaroo. As well as Mushroom Tower in an easy day.

If you end up doing Big Kangy from the hairpin on whatever route you do, make sure you do it in June or earlier so you can do a kick ass glissade down. I did it without snow and it was a pain in the ass coming down the scree.

[goatboy]

Thanks, anyone else?

Any specific routes you'd care to recommend?

[cj001f]

quote:

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Originally posted by Stefan:

I have done the standard route on Big Kangaroo. As well as Mushroom Tower in an easy day.

If you end up doing Big Kangy from the hairpin on whatever route you do, make sure you do it in June or earlier so you can do a kick ass glissade down. I did it without snow and it was a pain in the ass coming down the scree.

---

A second on the scree sucking. Lots of it. Small, loose, a pain in the ass. Snow coverage would have made it much, much nicer.

Carl

[crazyjizzy]

AlpineK and I did the Inferno Route in September of one year. It was a great route, and I have no idea where all this scree was. We thought the approach was casual.

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by crazyjz:

AlpineK and I did the Inferno Route in September of one year. It was a great route, and I have no idea where all this scree was. We thought the approach was casual.

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isnt that on sews and not the kanjas???

[crazyjizzy]

Eric,

Your right, we didn't do the Inferno Route. We did the longest route on Kang., the 1965 route. It was good, with lots of varied climbing.

[Uncle_Tricky]

Climbed the NW (???) route on Kangaroo temple last year. Can't remember the exact name, but it's the 5 or 6 pitch 5.7. For an easy route, it has a good variety of climbing and is fairly consistent at the grade. The first pitch is a traverse with some downclimbing and then up a water groove with sparse pro. I was climbing with an second who had only climbed a couple times, so following the traverse was pretty intimidating for her.

 

The route follows a chimney system with a couple short sections of laybacking or jamming. The best pitch was the "dance floor" pitch--a fun slab perched high on the rock with a corner crack. The descent is two or three single raps into the notch on the N. side, which is a 2 pitch route popular with the mounties (5.6ish?)

Contrary to the map in the becky book, the best approach from the hairpin is found on the W side of the creek.

 

[ 04-14-2002, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

[goatboy]

Thanksv ery much for the info, folks.

 

A point of clarification regarding my question, as several folks have referred to alternative (though nearby) formations:

 

I am mainly interested in routes on the formation called Big Kangaroo, visible from Hwy 20 at the hairpin turn East of Washington Pass. Kangaroo Temple is a separate formation, back behind the Big Kangaroo, not visible from hwy 20.

 

Unlike Kangaroo Temple, I don't hear of many people (or large parties!) on the Big Kangaroo very often.

 

Thanks again for everyone's willingness to share route information.