AlpineK Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Climb: Big Four -Tower 1 Date of Climb: 8/14/2005 Trip Report: CrazyJZ and I decided to check out the route on tower 1 of Big Four. We left Maltby at about 6 AM. The hike in was pretty straight forward. Just look for the beat down ferns. A little bit of brushy class 4 got us to the base of the route. Mark near the base of the route. I led the first pitch; which was this chimneyish pitch to a couple bolts at a ledge. CJZ headed out on the 2nd pitch Unfortunately CJZ is a bad face climber. Don't get me wrong he can climb hand cracks like mad, but put him on a bolted face and he starts whimpering. Anyway after 3 clips CJZ had had enough so I took over and led the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Top of 2 The technical crux of the route was pitch 3 and I would definately give it a 5.10a rating. Top of 3 Mark finally led a pitch Pitch 4 Then I led pitch 5. Top of 5 Cjz led pitch 6, which is described in the topo as an amazing hand crack. We don't agree with that, but it isn't bad. Pitch 6 From here on out things get funky. We got off route. I led this crazy tree/rock pitch and then I led another after CJZ started whimpering due to lack of pro on a short step. Anyway we took forever and then it was getting late. Eventually we got to the bivi ledge at the top of pitch 8. CJZ has a temper tantrum throwing personality; and the frustrating route finding brought that out in him. I of course could see what was happening to him, so I chose to make matters worse by adopting a positive can do attitude that I knew would infuriate him. Anyway the number 1 quote I remember from Sunday afternoon was, "I hate you, and I hate Mark Hanna, but mostly I hate you." We decided to rap after that. Rapping through trees made CJZ's temper get worse; suddenly in a fit of rage he threw hisw helmet off the crag. Fortunately the rapping got better and we made it to the base of the climb without further incident. Later that night we had dinner in Granite Falls and everything was better. Approach Notes: I can't comment on the upper pitches, but pitch 1-6 make a good cragging route. The rock is funky since it's conglomerate, which is an unusual type of rock. The 1st, 5th, and 6th pitches take gear. I also placed 1 piece of gear on pitch 3. Gear to 4" If you plan on going past P6 bring some webbing for raps since I think they need some more back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Thanks for posting the photos; it looks like a fun route. Where did you get the topo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 Written topo here All I can say is it's pretty straight forward through #6 then things get funky. Looking back on the hike out I saw some rock higher up that looks good but lower angle. Maybe I'll go back for a rematch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 What burr got under your saddle? Thanks for the recent TR's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 Obviously you've only climbed with harmonious, politically correct climbing partners. There's a much bigger world out there you're missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I only climb with nuns and ice-cream truck drivers. Every climb is successful and harmonius, and on the summits we all hold hands and dance in circles. On the descents, we trade off giving each other piggy-back rides and hot oil massages. I thought everyone climbed like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 when is crazyjz to post his version of the climb? nice pics, looks like a cool climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoroastr Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Gr8 t.r. J'ever get the helmet back? I climbed with a guy once who threw his treking poles. Hilarious. Tough to keep a straight face... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicoli11 Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Are the other towers not worth it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 This one, on the left, has more visible rock than the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicoli11 Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 well thats a familar sight for the cascades......geuss that takes care of my ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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