[TR] Big Four - Tower 1 8/14/2005

[AlpineK]

Climb: Big Four -Tower 1

 

Date of Climb: 8/14/2005

 

Trip Report:

CrazyJZ and I decided to check out the route on tower 1 of Big Four. We left Maltby at about 6 AM. The hike in was pretty straight forward. Just look for the beat down ferns.

 

A little bit of brushy class 4 got us to the base of the route.

 

Mark near the base of the route.

 

I led the first pitch; which was this chimneyish pitch to a couple bolts at a ledge.

 

CJZ headed out on the 2nd pitch

 

Unfortunately CJZ is a bad face climber. Don't get me wrong he can climb hand cracks like mad, but put him on a bolted face and he starts whimpering. Anyway after 3 clips CJZ had had enough so I took over and led the 2nd and 3rd pitch.

 

Top of 2

 

The technical crux of the route was pitch 3 and I would definately give it a 5.10a rating.

 

Top of 3

 

Mark finally led a pitch

 

Pitch 4

 

Then I led pitch 5.

 

Top of 5

 

Cjz led pitch 6, which is described in the topo as an amazing hand crack. We don't agree with that, but it isn't bad.

 

Pitch 6

 

From here on out things get funky. We got off route. I led this crazy tree/rock pitch and then I led another after CJZ started whimpering due to lack of pro on a short step. Anyway we took forever and then it was getting late. Eventually we got to the bivi ledge at the top of pitch 8.

 

CJZ has a temper tantrum throwing personality; and the frustrating route finding brought that out in him. I of course could see what was happening to him, so I chose to make matters worse by adopting a positive can do attitude that I knew would infuriate him. Anyway the number 1 quote I remember from Sunday afternoon was, "I hate you, and I hate Mark Hanna, but mostly I hate you."

 

We decided to rap after that. Rapping through trees made CJZ's temper get worse; suddenly in a fit of rage he threw hisw helmet off the crag. Fortunately the rapping got better and we made it to the base of the climb without further incident. Later that night we had dinner in Granite Falls and everything was better.

 

Approach Notes:

I can't comment on the upper pitches, but pitch 1-6 make a good cragging route. The rock is funky since it's conglomerate, which is an unusual type of rock. The 1st, 5th, and 6th pitches take gear. I also placed 1 piece of gear on pitch 3.

 

Gear to 4"

 

If you plan on going past P6 bring some webbing for raps since I think they need some more back up.

[colt45]

Thanks for posting the photos; it looks like a fun route. Where did you get the topo?

[AlpineK]

Written topo here

 

All I can say is it's pretty straight forward through #6 then things get funky. Looking back on the hike out I saw some rock higher up that looks good but lower angle.

 

Maybe I'll go back for a rematch.

[Squid]

What burr got under your saddle? Thanks for the recent TR's!

[AlpineK]

Obviously you've only climbed with harmonious, politically correct climbing partners. There's a much bigger world out there you're missing.

[Squid]

I only climb with nuns and ice-cream truck drivers. Every climb is successful and harmonius, and on the summits we all hold hands and dance in circles.

On the descents, we trade off giving each other piggy-back rides and hot oil massages.

 

I thought everyone climbed like that.

[cman]

when is crazyjz to post his version of the climb?

 

nice pics, looks like a cool climb.

[zoroastr]

Gr8 t.r. J'ever get the helmet back? I climbed with a guy once who threw his treking poles. Hilarious. Tough to keep a straight face...

[spicoli11]

Are the other towers not worth it??

[mattp]

This one, on the left, has more visible rock than the others.

[spicoli11]

well thats a familar sight for the cascades......geuss that takes care of my ?