tyree Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 Climb: Slesse-North Rib Date of Climb: 8/6/2005 Trip Report: Jimbo and I climbed the N. Rib of Slesse this last weekend. This was my first time climbing Slesse and I had a blast! . The approach was straight forward after dropping off the bikes and drinking a few beers we left the Nesakwatch TH around 3 pm. The trail was cut back and quite nice. From the memoril site we dropped into the basin and traversed the L. flank of the basin, linking scree fields and creek beds to a steep 4th class coulior. This led to the slabs that we traversed to the glacier. The slesse glacier has paritally slid making the traverse easily done in tennis shoes. We crossed on a bench that ran under a little waterfall flowing from the glacier. The bivi was flat and had running water 15 feet away. Our bivi set up was minamalistic, belay jackets and long johns. "good night Jimbo" "good night Tyree" We only had one jacket that we shared for the photos (just kidding) We woke up after a long night off nodding in and out and left the bivi around 5:30 am The first half of the route was "difficult to adequately protect", with runouts of 100' or more on some pitches. Jimbo up a the route about 1,200' We decided to take a little break at this point of the day. After some food, smoke, shit, an hour later we were back on route. This is where the climbing went from sustained to very sustained. The protection became a little better but there were still long runouts and many placements and holds needed to be gardened. The overall quality of the rock was good but there were sections that had some heinous loose blocks. Jimbo sent one down that missed my head by about 5'. There was plenty of ice and rock being shed by the frasier rib and sno fields flanking it. We reached the notch around 5:30 pm and were faded, an escape would have been easy but we pesevered to the summit. There is some wild and exposed climbing up here, definatly worth the effort. We finally topped out just after 8pm We made the raps with little incident except for getting the rope stuck on the 1st one. I climbed up 40' freed the rope and down climbed in tennis shoes. We finished the last rap just as it got totally dark. instead of making the decent in the dark we decided to hunker down for another long night out with no bags. "good night Jimbo" "good night Tyree" in the morning we pounded down the trail to the bikes and the 15 mile ride back to the car. I spared Jim the final 8 or so miles and continued on while he chilled with the packs. This is a kick ass mountian adventure with very sustained climbing on a huge peak. Thanks for the good times Jimbo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 nice job. that looks like a cozy bivy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 Aw Yeah! Quality all the way! Great trip, with a great partner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 Nice work boyz. That route is the shizzy nizzy! There isn't THAT much loose rock though, it deserves to be more popular. Hope you guys crush on Friday, Saturday still open Ti? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyree Posted August 11, 2005 Author Share Posted August 11, 2005 No, there isnt THAT much loose rock considering the length of the route. From what I understand is that this route is far better in terms of rock quality and climbing quailty than that of the NE butt . What I dont understand is, being the same grade, why doesnt it see the same amount of traffic that the NEB does? All in all this route kicks ass and deserves to be a classic !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoroastr Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Awesome effort...rope snags SAWK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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