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pup_on_the_mountain

Forbidden West Ridge couloir?

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Anybody knows what condition the WR couloir on Forbidden is in? Planning to attempt it next weekend (Aug 20).

Will be taking crampons and ice axe. Anything else necessary this time of the year (screws)?

 

If the couloir is out of shape, can we climb rock/choss on its side? If yes, which side?

What would you rate this alternate approach as?

 

Any info would be much appreciated smile.gif.

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It's been a very long while but I recall the rock to the left as looking real do-able. The same set of recollections state that the couloir is no big deal; just go do it (maybe without being under another party).

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I agree, just do it. Did this a few year back when there was not much snow up there. cruised it with just an axe, no crampons. was not bad at all.

 

the ridge above the couloir is great!! enjoy it!

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Was on forbidden WR last weekend of July. The coulior was still doable, with a big chunck missing at the elbow of the coulior. It was still possible to go up though. I would agree about waiting if others are on coulior above you as there is a bit of loose stuff that we saw get kicked down. Only advice is get an early start to avoid the mush. Have fun

Edited by alpineyeti

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You can always do a 4th class scramble to the left if you can't make it up the couloir and it is a little run-out. Also, on the descent, finding rap anchors (webbing) can be tough as alot of the anchors left by other parties are too high off the current snow level to reach. Look for other area to set anchors or look at coming down the SW side. There is supposed to be another descent option. Maybe E. Ridge as well? Look back from 2003 summer and see what was discussed on this topic.

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Anybody knows what condition the WR couloir on Forbidden is in? Planning to attempt it next weekend (Aug 20).

Will be taking crampons and ice axe. Anything else necessary this time of the year (screws)?

 

If the couloir is out of shape, can we climb rock/choss on its side? If yes, which side?

What would you rate this alternate approach as?

 

Any info would be much appreciated smile.gif.

 

As of last Thursday the little snow bridge at the top of the couloir to the rock was just about to melt out, I wouldn't be surprised if it's gone by now. Crampons and ice axe are suffice for the route- no screws necessary. The rap rings/stations are all straight forward and obvious. As I was descending the couloir in the dark (climbed E. ridge), I didn't get a good look at alternate options- but from what I experienced, it would be somewhat loose/choss rock in places and not very well protected. Hope that helps!

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