Shuksan's summit pyramid- how hard is it really??

[plark42]

Hello CCers-

 

I am planning to climb shuksan in a few weeks via the sulphide glacier, and I wanted to get a better idea of what the summit scramble is like.. I've heard everything from easy class 3 gully to exposed class 4 with a few low class 5 moves on slanted ramps. I just wanted some info or pictures from fellow CC'ers about the scramble. (trying to decide whether or not to bring some rock pro).

 

Thanks

[mattyg]

It all depends on which way you go up. I'm sure you could find some low 5th class on it somewhere, but from what I recall it's 3rd to maybe 4th class. Just look for the line of least resistance and you shouldn't need any pro.

[tshimko]

It's been some time, but I also recall that if you picked a decent line, it was class 3. I remember going up and down with some climbers of modest ability and not needing a rope for either.

[klawatti]

I climbed it on 7/16 and had to turn the group back without summitting the pyramid becasue of steep snow that was still in the gully. The snow was steep, very poor to protect and had a lousy run-out. However, it may be melted out by now. Once dry, the gully should be a straight-forward scramble.

 

The SE ridge is an option and goes 5.5 with some steep exposure. We did not have the right gear or pro.

 

Snow gully on Pyramid

 

SE Ridge goes about 5.5

Edited August 2, 2005 by klawatti

[thelawgoddess]

nice pics!

[MADman]

Did Shuksan via White Salmon Glacier 7/23-25. Gully was jammed with teams, but certainly doable. Wouldn't hurt to have a few stoppers and hexes.

 

[zoroastr]

I just did it solo this morning--see my T.R. Seriously, once you're on route, it never goes above class 4 in the standard central gulley. There's always a convenient ledge to catch the highly improbable slip, and the scrambling itself is pure pleasure--lots of jug handles and bomber footholds. I'm not a serious rock climber. I've never owned a pair of rock shoes, and have never ventured above 5.7 routes in my Frankenstein signature Vasque moutaineering boots, and honestly, once I was on the route, I couldn't see what all the fuss was about. It took about 20 minutes.--cheers

[plark42]

pre-climb apprehension I guess... I just like to know what I am getting into (and others into as well) before I venture up there...

 

Thanks for the info and pictures... the more the merrier!!

[EJohnson]

I agree with Zoroastr. The summit pyramid is short, only 400 feet or so. Also, its a easy day hike no need to make it a two dayer. Have fun, great views up there

 

Erick

[Jens]

Ben Manfredi skiied from the top.

[Skeezix]

Reality check: The gully is easy but prone to rockfall. Helps to be the first party up. The SE ridge is mid 5th, clean, a fun romp, and an excellent option when the SF gully is crowded.

[Harry_Pi]

Hello capitalist!

Confucius say don't make mountain out of molehill.

Thank you for allow communist to post.