denalidevo Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 I'm contemplating doing the Torment-Forbidden traverse in early August. Does anyone know what the condition of the ice traverse? Is it worth doing if it's out, or would the resulting scramble be too heinious? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 The schrund on the Taboo glacier approach is most likely unpassable by now. we crossed the last sketchy snowbridge about 10 days ago, and the schrund went all the way across the glacier. it may be passable on rock to climber's left or I bet you could go in via the Torment Glacier though... No word on the traverse though, we got rained off from the East Col/first glacier on Torment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 The schrund was wall-to-wall on the Taboo Glacier on July 24th. It is still possible to do the traverse, just access Torment from the Eldorado side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 It gets done later than this. Just be prepared for some steep and hard ice/snow. -josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidevo Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 What kind of protection would you recommend for the ice/snow traverse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Did it last year in early October. We used the SE Face of Torment for access. The glacier was no problem at all. The climbing on the SE face was great. Clean, easy to mid 5th, with fixed anchors (slung horns). Getting on the face from the glacier was super easy. Go do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daylward Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 It should be fine. I can't imagine it would deteriorate much in the next couple weeks: My report from 7/30/05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 you can access from the rock on the climbers right and then traverse above the moat to the S. Ridge notch. Looked good to go. The moats on the NW glacier side would have me more worried but I am sure there will be ways around the difficulties for the persistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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