Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
zoroastr

West McMillan Spire - West Ridge - Day Climb

Recommended Posts

Partner Erick Johnson and I decided once again to probe the outer limits of our light-n'-fast peak assault capabilities this last weekend. All I wanted was a relaxed hike up Cashmere Mountain to see what's at the end of Eight-Mile Road and to take a look at where they're trying to put that research tunnel thing. But EJ came up with the idea of trying to snag WMS in a day. Goofy, I thought, but we'd heard at least one rumour of some friend of a friend of an aquaintance who'd maybe done it once before in a day, and that was good enough for me, so off we went. Times were as follows:

 

Left Redmond @ 5:30 am.

On trail at 8:07 am.

Topped out @ 2:40 pm.

 

Took it kind of easy on the way out, but still made it back to car well before dark, wishing we'd spent more time in that unique and amazing Terror Basin. I posted a report and some pics at Summitpost.com:

 

http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/5209

 

 

 

Edited by zoroastr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheerist did you guys run up that thing? 12 hours RT with over 8000' of gain is moving. Certainly I won't scoff at the assertion of W. Mac being done in a day anymore. Nice work EJ and Zoroastr.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We did actually jog a bit. This was not really "climbing," but a kind of ultra-light alpine cheating. My small cyclist's pack probably weighed less than five pounds and contained exactly the following:

1. [1] box smore's-flavored Pop-Tarts.

2. [2] bananas

3. sunglasses

4. sunscreen

5. crampons

6. a light shell layer

7. camera

...that was it. No water or water container, no headlamp. It was actually kind of stupid, and I have to say if anyone is considering doing the same thing, make bloody sure you're out of the upper wooded section before light starts to fade--even with perfect visibility, we lost the trail three times up and three times on descent. Still, I think our strict turn-around time policy was conservative and kept us relatively safe.

 

--cheers

cantfocus.gif

Edited by zoroastr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

John took those with Canon Powershot SD200. That was our first trip to the Pickets, the views. thumbs_up.gif

Its kind of a shame that we only spent a few hours in such alpine splendor, but I won't want carry over-night gear up that trail.

 

Erick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet! This really is a pretty reasonable day climb. We did the loop last year leaving the car at 6am hiking up the trail and traversing below the pickets over the barrier and climbing the chopping block. From there we descended the barrier to terror creek and back to the car by dark. Great day out. This year I would like to do Terror in a day from the car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You cross the barrier in a orange looking gully just below the glacier. If you look at the barrier from below the McMillan Spire it is an obvious left trending gully that splits throught the barrier. there are some trees at the top of it. If someone has some photos I will mark the gully on them. You do not have to loose much elevation, and the climbing is probably no more than class 2.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I cant tell for sure in your photo, but I think it is the gully that has two very small patches of snow in it. It bypasses to the left side of a small peak on the ridge, and it definatly has a red color to it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could also be the gully about 100 yard to the left since I see the trees in the top of that one. It is one of the two.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone have more info on the Barrier crossing into Terror Basin, I'm headed up that way in a few days and am wondering what I should look fro going in that way

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What kind of post-processing did you do on the photos? They are absolutely gorgeous. Nice!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the nice comments 'bout my snaps. Of course, I cropped and shrank 'em way down--the originals are huge res [1600 X 1200] shots that whould never fit a screen. The images are tweaked for gamma, color saturation and sometimes contrast, using ThumbsPlus, the greatest file editor/sorter ever, IMHO.

--thanks again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×