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AlpinistAndrew

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Everything posted by AlpinistAndrew

  1. Climb: Mt. Sefrit-Attempt-Northeast Face Date of Climb: 10/29/2005 Trip Report: Wanted to get a mountain in before the snows came, but they've already come. Followed one of the routes in the Beckey guide. Dropped down the creekbed fromthe Hannegan Trail, crossed Ruth Creek and began ascending a boulder field on the lower flanks of Sefrit. Aimed for the steep walled gully. The gully was easy, but sometimes we had to climb up next to the creek and a few times waterfalls had to be negotiated (which meant getting wet). We arrived at the class 4 chimney/gully. Seemed harder than class 4. Wore crampons to climb it. It was wet, muddy and awkward. continued ascending easy slopes. By now we were in about a foot or more of snow. It was snowing pretty hard on and off. Made it to the mini glacier just below the summit ridge. By now it was 3pm and we knew we still had a fair bit of ridge climbing to do. We turned around. We didn't descend the gully becouse we only had a 30m rope. We descended snow covered rock slabs, and steep forested hillsides. We were forced to do a few rappels as well. We then proceeded to down climb/rappel by hanging on to slide alder. It was muddy, brushy and wet. Crossed Ruth Ck. in the dark. Back in B'ham by 9.
  2. Colchuck Conditions Question

    So I am headed to WA from Vermont for my annual pilgrimage to my homeland. I'm headed out Tuesday and am looking at climbing the NBC of Colchuck and was wondering if anyone has been in the area or up the route recently. I'm not really in tune with the snowpack in the Cascades this year, so I'm not sure what to expect right now. I realize that usually it is climbed a bit earlier in the season, but was hoping to get up it. Any beta would be appreciated, thank you!
  3. Colchuck Conditions Question

    Awesome, thanks for the offer!
  4. Aid Climbing Gear

    I have a few aid climbing items for sale. As of now I am not selling the items individually, but as a "package" ($60 for everything). Most of this stuff has been used once if ever. Only the daisies have seen any real use. (2) Black Diamond 6 Step Etriers (2) Black Diamond Talon Hooks (1) Black Diamond Cliffhanger Hook (1) Micro Cam Hook (1) Black Diamond Fifi Hook (2) Black Diamond Daisy Chains For Everything: $60 + Shipping
  5. Scarpa Freney XT GTX Boots

    Scarpa Freney XT GTX Boots Size: 44 (~10.5) Price: $99 plus shipping Great ice climbing and mountaineering boots. I've used them for ice climbing the last couple of years and they work great and keep my feet plenty warm. They are size 44, which fits by 10.5+ foot perfectly. They are in good condition with plenty of life left in them for ice climbing or mountaineering. Now that I don't ice climb and live in VT, I don't really have much use for this kind of boot anymore.
  6. More Ice Climbing Gear

    I have a few more things to sell in order to finalize my exit from ice climbing. Scarpa Omega Ice Climbing/Mountaineering Boots Price: $89 + shipping (~$15) Details: I've used these for a few seasons. They are quite warm and work well for both ice climbing and mountaineering. I have not thermomolded the liners before, so you could do that for a better fit. Size: Mens 10.5 (US sizing) Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Mitts Price: $45 + Shipping Details: I've used these once before. I bought them for an expedition and only had to bust them out one time. They are in like new condition. Very warm mitts! Great for belays or if you are going to Denali. Size: Large (Most of my gloves are medium, but I bought these to be a bit roomier) Black Diamond Cyborg Crampons --> SOLD
  7. Dropped the price to $85 from my original $100 Item: Scarpa Omega Plastic Boots - Size 10.5 Details: Worn a few seasons, but overall in fine condition. Liners have never been molded. Price: $85 plus shipping
  8. Petzl Nomics

    Petzl Nomic Ice Tools, $380 + shipping. Purchased these in the Fall of 2009 and have used then very lightly for two seasons. I have mixed climbed a few times, but for the most part the picks have seen mainly ice. Overall, they are in good condition; the picks have one more season on them. As one can interpret from the photos the backs of the heads on both tools have some minor wear. On one occasion I pounded in a few pitons, which caused some small dents, but doesn't impact switching out picks or putting on a hammer attachment. Overall I loved these tools, but with a young baby now, I don't have much time for climbing, at least for now. PM me with any questions. Payment via PayPal.
  9. Scarpa Omega Ice Climbing Boots

    Scarpa Omega Ice Climbing Boots Size: US Men's 10.5 Older version, not the newest model $125 plus shipping I used these for three seasons, but they are still in decent condition. I have never thermo-molded the liners, so you could do so in order to get a perfect fit. I don't recall the UK sizing, but I normally wear a 10.5 for street shoes and these fit me well for ice climbing. I have used these for ice climbing and for mountaineering. I found that they walked and climbed well. PM me if you are interested!
  10. Petzl Nomics

    I will say I never pounded a pin after that, and yes, I did need that pin badly I guess when I say gently used, I should say not used very often (~8 times per winter).
  11. Rock Shoes

    -Bivy Sold, Crampons Sold La Sportiva Cliff Rock Shoes: $30.00 + Shipping (Price reduced from 35.00) Mens size 42.5/9.5, these have only been worn a couple of times this past summer . They are in excellent shape. The reason I'm selling is they are too big for me. PM me with any questions or clarifications
  12. BD's newest Fusion winter '09/ '10 review

    I own the nomics and love them. I don't climb hard; I use them for easy/moderate ice (WI2/WI3). I've also used them following harder stuff (and they excelled). I used them today on a WI2 and they were awesome! I do grip them differently for lower angle stuff though. Thus far the lack of spike hasn't really been an issue for me.
  13. WTB: Raptor/Bionic Front Points

    I have 2 that I won't be using (mainly because I don't have the dual front point stuff for my bionics anymore). Depends on how sharp you want them, they are "used" but they seem fine, you've seen them.
  14. N twin S twin winter climbing conditions

    I agree with Farrgo. If you are doing the West Ridge, then avy conditions shouldn't be a problem. I have climbed the W. Ridge in all conditions and during all times of the year (I think I'm at eight ascents now), I spent too much time in that area when I was going to WWU. Even if the gate is open, don't go past, because they will close it eventually and you'll be trapped. For South Sister, you can cut across from N. Twin's W. Ridge to S. Twin's west ridge (there may be some avy danger going ridge to ridge in the valley/bowl. S. Twin's West Ridge is longer than the North's, but easier. Bring some crampons for snow/ice on rock. The W. ridge is pretty fun in wintery conditions.
  15. Sloan Peak

    This is a great peak, highly recommend the Corkscrew Route. I climbed that route in October of '02, which was a wonderful time to be up there (maybe not so late this year with all the melt action). The approach was classically Cascades, the glacier travel was exciting (some fun jumps) and the rock section was easy. One of the most memorable climbs I have done in the Cascades. I haven't done many climbs in the Monte Cristo/Mountain Loop region, but everyone I've climbed has been awesome.
  16. early season ice?

    I second the Coleman seracs. Had some fun times up there. It's not the best, but you get to swing your tools. The hillside next to the Coleman has been known to freeze in October. Some of most fun ice climbing I have done. Though I'm not sure what the road condition getting to the TH is right now. North face of Observation Rock in Mt. Rainier NP. I've been up there before in late August/Early Sept. and it is a fun glacier ice climb.
  17. Ice Tool Recommendation

    It's 90 degrees out and I'm thinking about ice climbing, hmm..So, I've sold my old tools (Pre-07 vipers) and am looking for my next set. These will be my one and only set. I mostly do moderate ice and some "alpine" (however that can be defined in the East). The three tools I have been looking at are the Nomic, Viper, and Reactor. I've been leaning towards the nomic. I've used it on easy ice before (WI2/3) and it seemed to work well and I definitely like the feel. I like the big grip of the reactor, because usually when I'm climbing out here it is REALLY cold (but it seems that the nomic might be able to accommodate larger gloves). Don't really know much about the NEW vipers, but they seem decent. Every now and then I'll probably use it on harder single pitch climbs, so it won't be strictly used on easy/mod. stuff. I did quite a bit of research and after trying to extrapolate useful information from a multitude of reviews, I felt a bit more conflicted. So, I'm seeing what folks thought on here. I appreciate any feedback with regards to these tools, personal experience etc. Thanks.
  18. Ice Tool Recommendation

    Thanks for the recommendations. It basically reaffirms what I already knew internally. Though I must say the "cheater-stick" remark definitely sold me. Nomics it is!
  19. bunch of gear 4 sale **UPDATED**

    PM Sent on ice tools
  20. Mountain Hardwear Jacket

    Mountain Hardwear Men's Alchemy Jacket Size Large. I normally wear a medium for pretty much everything else, but this one is sized different. I'm 5'9", 165# and the Large fits great. Used, but in good condition. $70
  21. Mountain Hardwear Jacket

    Sold
  22. Mountain Hardwear Sleeping Bag

    Mountain Hardwear Fairview 40 degree F Down Bag. Lightweight, compressible down bag (1lb, 15oz) . This bag is in EXCELLENT condition. I used this bag but a few times. Included are the stuff sack and mesh storage sack. $75
  23. Crampons: BD and Grivel

    Black Diamond Bionic Crampons (1st generation) $40.00 Used, but they have at least one more season in them. Included is an extra set of front points. Currently they are set up as mono-points. I don't have the stuff to make them dual points, but I've preferred them as mono's. Grivel 2F Crampons $40.00 Used, but still in good condition. New-matic version. Comes with anti-balling plates. I've used for everything from mountaineering to ice climbing.
  24. Crampons: BD and Grivel

    Check your PM's
  25. WA Guidebooks

    Selling various WA/PNW climbing guidebooks because I don't live in WA anymore. Waterfall Ice: Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Joe Josephson $15 Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide (Signed too) by Jason Martin/Alex Krawarik $12 Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountains (3rd Ed.) $8 100 Classic Snowboard/Ski Routes in WA by Rainer Burgdorfer $10 Green Beckey (2nd Ed.) $12 Red Beckey (2nd Ed.) $12 All books are in pretty good condition, no damage or anything, just lots of undetectable thumb prints from nights of ogling at the plethora of mountains.
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