RuMR Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 mountains to molehills and molehills to mountains... someone please post a pic of the via ferrata ...where are you, pope? "I got your back, man, i got your back"....sheesh, this is shaping up like a lunchtime school yard brawl...you guys wear your gang coluhs? I'm taking my football and goin' home... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 Maybe this thread should be merged into this one to create the super bitch thread. Quote
Heydude Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 Chalk is for chumps. I guess you could say the same for gym climbers. Quote
flyingpig Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 RuMR, i bet that you have a really pretty mouth. were you in brokebackmountain? your the one who licked his hand, aren't you. Quote
Heydude Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 the pig is a little slow today (smokin the good stuff)larry is heydude. That's ok a slow pig is better than no pig This site is a little confusing to me too. Bill, Mark, Kev, Andrew to my homies.Joe, looking forward to meeting you. I'm going to try to get up there next month. I miss Beacon. Life is good in Moab. Highline fest in Oct. if anyone is interested.Sorry joe no tradliners Quote
RuMR Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 RuMR, i bet that you have a really pretty mouth. were you in brokebackmountain? your the one who licked his hand, aren't you. Hey sizzlin bacon porko chop...i figger its time for your homo-bashing to start...you know what they say about homophobes, don'tcha? Quote
JosephH Posted August 21, 2006 Author Posted August 21, 2006 Larry, you should see the top of Flying Dutchman, at grassy ledges. He has added anchors, and fixed lines all over the place, just to get down to the anchors over the edge, it looks like a Robinson carusoe village, with fixes lines all over the place. He is making it way to accessible to everyone. This of course it my personal opinion. Kevin, this just could not be more wrong. What has happened is that Eric's blue rope (remember the bright blue rope) that ran from the tree up on Grassy Ledges all the way down to Flying Dutchman and then all the way back down to the top rope anchors he installed on the top of Borderline got replaced with a two shorter individual ropes that are now basically invisible from the ground. And instead of it running for 60'. They also no longer invite someone down from Grassy Ledges as you can't see them at all from the spot where Eric's blue rope used to be tied let alone clip them as you could Eric's rope. An anchor was placed about 8" above the ground below the step down to the Flying Dutchman area to secure the end of the [short] replacement safety lines down to the Borderline and Excaliber anchors. This anchor allowed the removal of Eric's rope from the tree and is basically invisible unless and until you go down to Flying Dutchman which you can do, but you don't have Eric's line for a safety to attract or rope you down to it - that was an invitation. Where Eric's line could be seen and clipped from Grassy Ledges and seen from the boat launch, the new lines can't be seen from either place. The BRSP explicitly wanted this highly visible line down - what's there now is an invisible replacement that retains the essential functional characteristics of Eric's rig without "inviting" folks down to Flying Dutchman the way Eric's rig did. Oh, and did you bitch and moan this much when Eric put all that trash up there to begin with? No? What a surprise. And Jim Opdycke's comment was, "Love it. If anyone has a problem have them talk to me." So I'd say talk with him about, but at least get your facts straight first. I'd encourage folks to go look at it for themselves, but do it with what was there in mind. Also, Excaliber is the one place where you can get a rescue litter off of the Grassy Ledges in one rap where you have a clean, accessible top and an essentially flat wall compared to the Blownout and Flying Dutchman dihedrals. That low anchor by the step will double for a staging / backup anchor in a litter op down Excaliber. Quote
kevbone Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 Like I said, this was just my opinion on how it looks. Let me ask this: Are you going to remove all ropes from this area? When? Why is there a rope fixed to get down to top of Blownout? Quote
Heydude Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 Like I said, this was just my opinion on how it looks. Let me ask this: Are you going to remove all ropes from this area? When? Why is there a rope fixed to get down to top of Blownout? Fixed lines for more than a day = abandon lines imo.Remove it or lose it. Quote
JosephH Posted August 21, 2006 Author Posted August 21, 2006 Larry, so Eric's rope was up there for years because you felt this way? The Anchor Replacement Project basically hasn't been about removing gear or functionality - it's been about replacing like for like but reducing the visibility profile of it all from the ground. Anchor for anchor, pin for pin, and in the case of Eric's rig - being able to safely get down to the tops of Borderline, Excaliber, and Crankenstien to setup topropes - that functionality has been duplicated exactly. If folks didn't want this functionality or were genuinely concerned about "inviting" people down to Flying Dutchment then why didn't any of you folks take Eric's line down long ago? The fixed line from Grassy Ledges to Blownout was a temporary workline for replacing anchors on routes in the vicinity of Blownout and was removed when the work was completed, but then Jim Opdycke and several others requested that it be put back. I don't care either way - take that one up with Jim. All the lines are now set up to be removed at the end of the season and put back up the following spring. Quote
kevbone Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 (edited) I did not like Eric's work or mess either. But coating them with sugar to make them look a little better is crap. And the difference Joe is Eric might have made a mess with some areas, but he did not spray about it online. You are going to keep the ropes up until the end of the season and put them back up at the start of next season. That means they will alway be there. Lets not forget, our forefathers all climbed there with out bolts or anchors, i remember climing blownout with out any anchors, you had to topout. Edited August 21, 2006 by kevbone Quote
flyingpig Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 it seems as if the commitment and adventure is being taken away from the rock. jim taught us to top out, because that was the true spirit of the rock. i don't understand why he would change his mind on that issue. the bottom line is, the rock can't handle more than maybe twenty climbers on any given day. don't make the rock so appealing. the people who really want to do these lines will do them. i did them(and i suck). i liked the fact they were dirty, and the anchors were shotty. it taught me to be a well rounded climber, and took me to bigger and different things. we climbed in the rain, the snow, stong winds and at night. it was our training ground ( our mini-bigwall). beacon is not a sunnyday crag. portland is not a sunnyday town. Quote
JosephH Posted August 21, 2006 Author Posted August 21, 2006 WTF Kevin? Back up a couple of posts and you'll see YOU are the one that just brought up the topic of those lines - not me. Are you for real? Are you telling me that this is how you operate? That you can actually post here about something online and then blame me for "spraying about it online". You're kidding me right? Get a grip dude - don't want a topic online? THEN DON'T POST ABOUT IT ONLINE... Quote
RuMR Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 it seems as if the commitment and adventure is being taken away from the rock. jim taught us to top out, because that was the true spirit of the rock. i don't understand why he would change his mind on that issue. the bottom line is, the rock can't handle more than maybe twenty climbers on any given day. don't make the rock so appealing. the people who really want to do these lines will do them. i did them(and i suck). i liked the fact they were dirty, and the anchors were shotty. it taught me to be a well rounded climber, and took me to bigger and different things. we climbed in the rain, the snow, stong winds and at night. it was our training ground ( our mini-bigwall). beacon is not a sunnyday crag. portland is not a sunnyday town. "spirit of the rock"! Hey, lookie its dean pothead's little bro! You sound like a surf nazi...hey, where are the sign up sheets to get into this exclusive club of "twenty climbers" Quote
flyingpig Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 sounds like a paradox to me. hard not to be a hypocrite these days, but it's a means to an end. i don't think kevin is the only one pointing fingers at you joseph. we havn't had a drama like this since tim olson. who is the king of beacon? what will happend when jim goes away? Quote
JosephH Posted August 21, 2006 Author Posted August 21, 2006 Lets not forget, our forefathers all climbed there with out bolts or anchors, i remember climing blownout with out any anchors, you had to topout. Kevin, I'd be the very first person to remove every single protection and anchor bolt out at Beacon if it were up to me and I thought that would really lower Beacon's profile. I actually don't need them, I do know how to build anchors, and have the loweballs and crack'n ups and don't mind climbing above them - but, that's not what this has been about, it's been about replacing anchors and resetting/replacing pins and camo'ing any protection bolts. Nothing has changed about the nature of climbing at Beacon - I haven't put in any new anchors or changed any anchors that affect anyone's behavior relative to topping out on Beacon other than Eric's top rope anchors. I did't put the anchors on top of Blownout for instance - others did. Did you bitch then? Have you ever rapped Blownout? Or used that anchor? You're bitching at the wrong person - you should have been bitching at the folks that placed all the anchors out there as they were doing it. All in all a lot of noise from a guy that's never seen a [protection] bolt he didn't like... Quote
flyingpig Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 RuMR, are you from boulder? or is it that the other surfers would let you surf. Quote
JosephH Posted August 21, 2006 Author Posted August 21, 2006 sounds like a paradox to me. hard not to be a hypocrite these days, but it's a means to an end. i don't think kevin is the only one pointing fingers at you joseph. we havn't had a drama like this since tim olson. who is the king of beacon? what will happend when jim goes away? Funny you should mention Olson - he's just came out of the background claiming to be on the verge of publishing a "high resolution, very detailed map of Beacon". I've conveyed in an email to him that the consensus of the BRCA would be that he not do so - I doubt that's going to carry a lot of weight with him, though. Better questions might be what happens when the next Eric shows up? What happens when a couple of hot shot climbers turn up and claim they want to bolt up what they say are clearly abandoned lines that haven't seen activity in years? Quote
RuMR Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 flyingpig, are you from the Aryan Nation, in Eastern oregon? Or did you finally figure out how to work a computer? Quote
kevbone Posted August 21, 2006 Posted August 21, 2006 Look Joseph, all I know is there is ropes and new anchors up there, you may not be able to see them from the ground, but whoopti do. The rock has operated for years with out these fixy ropes You are the type of guy who comes into another persons house and rearranges the furniture to suit you. You are doing this at the rock, you are rearranging everything to suit you, and pissing a lot of people off in the process. You have clearly stated you hate bolts. But you have been bolting the crap out of Beacon. You have stated to me if it was your wish, “ all the bolts at Beacon would be pulled, all the bolts”, Hypocrisy at is best. Quote
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