dlando Posted July 25, 2001 Posted July 25, 2001 I'm looking for beta on the north buttress of Mt Johanessburg...anyone been up there lately? I've heard the lower half is crappy rock, but how bad is it? Is the technical climbing just a move here and there or sustained? Quote
mikeadam Posted July 25, 2001 Posted July 25, 2001 Once again email Tim Matsui. I saw him and his partner carefully descending the Sill Glacier a few weeks ago, but didn't speak to him. I have not climbed that route. http://timmatsui.com/contact.htm Mike [This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 07-24-2001).] Quote
Mr._Blister Posted August 1, 2001 Posted August 1, 2001 Did you get the beta you needed? I would take this off line but your e-mail does not appear to be listed. John Sharp Quote
dlando Posted August 5, 2001 Author Posted August 5, 2001 Thanks Mike and John... Well I haven't received any beta yet, but then I just emailed Tim. Been out of town for awhile. I would guess from the few responses that this route doesn't see too many ascents? Dan Quote
Jens Posted August 5, 2001 Posted August 5, 2001 Give yourself lots of time to get off the thing. It took us longer to get down than to get from the car to the summit. Quote
wotan_of_ballard Posted August 5, 2001 Posted August 5, 2001 check out the june 01 thread on joberg. there is a short 5.7 section on west variation, most of rock is reasonably solid by cascade standards until summit ridge- then it is more shattered. down low its not a loose rock problem but of alaska cedar, you may want to running belay thru it, its cliffy. excellent bivy on east side of snow arete. Quote
dlando Posted August 6, 2001 Author Posted August 6, 2001 Well, Tim came through with some awesome beta - thanks for his email address, Mike. At this point I'm not so sure I will attempt it this season...just too few days off and too many other options (on better rock). If I do give it a shot, I'll post the trip here... Thanks all! Dan Quote
Mr._Blister Posted August 6, 2001 Posted August 6, 2001 I concur with Jens. Jim Nelson, Bob Davis and I tried it as a day climb in mid-July '99. No such luck. We huddled in the rocks part way down the ridge, and finished descending on day 2 via the CJ couloir. The pictures in Selected Climbs Vol. II are in reverse chronological order. It might be doable in a day, but the nature of the route and rock quality demand close attention. Tim Matsui and a partner did it quite recently, so you should check with him as well. I think it's worth doing, mostly so you can look at it from elsewhere in the area and be glad you did it, without feeling a great urge to do it again. Good luck. This week should be perfect for it. John Sharp Quote
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