dlando

Thanks Lowell - I think we will go to the North Cascades instead...

Anyone been up on the Mowitch face recently? What are conditions like?

Thanks all! Good advice... I think I will see what's up Alaska way and would make a decent 2.5 week trip...

I have a frind who lives in Bishop, and he say the snow is melting fast up high...

Yeah, June definitely looks like the most popular month to go. I was just wondering if it will be a waste of money to go in May, which is the only time I have available. For that matter, does anyone have input on where the best place in the world is to climb for two weeks in the month of May? Seems like most of the hot spots are open either earlier or later...

Anyone have an opinion on when the climbing season begins in Bolivia? The guidebook I have (Yossi Brain) says May - September, and I am thinking of going in May, but I just talked to someone who has been there a few times and he says May is a bad idea - we will waste our time in storms and/or powder slogs. Anyone been there in May?

In a typical year June is a great time to be in Yosemite/the Sierras. A little early to be way up high, like in the Palisades/Whitney areas, but even that is still doable. I have camped on snow at the base of Cathedral peak in July, but that was a very heavy snow year - generally no problem in June. Hwy 120 through Toualumne Meadows should open just before Memorial Day weekend. The great thing about the Sierras, and unlike the PNW, is that even if you end up approaching on snow, your chances of being rained/snowed on while clinbing in June are not too high.

Ray, it sounds like the single wall is for you, but in case anyone else is interested, I was involved in the developement of the SD Hercules tent and it is by far the strongest tent on the market from a wind load stand point. We tested it in wind tunnels (including the one at UW by the way) and it is the only tent we have EVER been unable to make fail. Though, to be honest, we had to promise not to crank the wind speeds up over 100mph (damages the tunnel when the tent blows up at that speed). For reference, every 4-season tent you can think of will generally fail below 50mph. The Hercules also weighs about a pound less than comparable double wall tents. - Dan

All sold.

it's sold

Thought I'd pass this on in case any are interested... Subject: Backcountry Ski Race March 31st at Alpental Three weeks to go... And another benefit for the Avalanche Center!!! Life-Link/DynaFit Randonee Rally at Alpental When : The race is March 31st. Race starts at 8:00 am. There will be a mandatory, pre-race meeting, packet and bib pickup on Friday, March 29. 6:00 p.m. at REI downtown Seattle, in the meeting room. Rules, general race information, and specific course information will be discussed at 7:00 p.m. Where : Alpental. The race route leads up in the ski area to the out of bounds gate, across the Great Scott Traverse, climbs Piss Pass and downhill ski the Great Scott Bowl. Then, skins back on and reverse the course. For the Elite catagory racers, the course will include the Rec. catagory course, then skin to Source Lake, skin up to Pineapple Pass, ski down the Great Scott Bowl, skin up to Piss Pass and across the Great Scott Traverse, then to the finish line via the ski area. The course promises to be a challenge through Alpental's breathtaking backcountry terrain. Entry Fee : $35 for individuals or $30 per team member and $20 lift tickets (unless you have a season pass). Registration : You may enter at the R.E.I downtown Seattle store or online <http://life-link.com/alpregistration.htm> at Life-Link.com and mail in the registration or drop it off at R.E.I (downtown store only). Entry forms will be available at Alpental Guest Services and Retail after Feb. 22. All entries must be dropped off at the R.E.I downtown stores or mailed to P.O Box 2913, Jackson Hole, WY 83001. No entries accepted at the Summit at Snoqualmie. Discipline : Racers must ascend by use of climbing skins. Randonnee, Telemark or splitboards allowed. Divisions : Men/Women Elite Catagory, Men/Womens Recreational Catagory, and team. Teams are made up of 3 people (men/women or combined). Mandatory Requirements : Safety straps or brakes required. Avalanche Transceiver, shovel and probe required. Contact Information : Go to Life-Link.com <http://www.life-link.com/> or phone 1-800-443-8620 ex 175 For local information, call Bruce Greenstein at 206-287-4836. General Information : This Alpine Touring race highlights the strengths and endurance of local skiers, while benefiting the NW Weather and Avalanche Center. Volunteer Opportunities : If you do not wish to race, but want to get involved, you may volunteer to help coordinate the race. Spots for checkpoint duty are still avaiable (that way you get to tour part of the course to get to the checkpoint, as well as base area help. Contact Bruce Greenstein for more info at 206-287-4836. This event is sponsored by Dynafit, Life-Link, REI, Pro Guiding Service, Off-Piste Magazine, and others. The Avalanche Center appreciates your participation.

The Spectrum bag is sold... Evolution, Prism and Reaction are still available.

Brand new Sierra Designs 3/4 season tent. 2-person convertible model. Retail is $289, I will sell for $159

Both tents are sold. I should have another one soon though, so let me know if you are interested in that one...

One is sold, there is still one left...

My favorite Harding quote: "Today's climbers are whole new breed...They're strong...fit...responsible. They're like Olypian atheletes! They've really gone astray..."

I have two Sierra Designs Nightwatch tents for sale ($189.00 each). These are 3/4-season tents, very strong, with two doors, two vestibules, and better ventilation than any 4-season tent out there. The top of fly AND canopy can zip open (like a skylight). You can stand up and change your pants. Or stare at the stars with no pesky bug screen in the way. Rain in the night? Sit up in your bag and zip the top closed. Normally retail for $339.00 These have been set up for catalog photography, but never used. Contact me at danlan1@earthlink.net if you are interested...

Here's what I've got: New (2002) Sierra Designs Convertible sleeping bags. Convertible means the top layer can zip off to create a less-warm bag. So the bags have two teparature ratings, depending on whether the top is zipped on or off. One bag now works for all seasons. Men's SD Spectrum bag, Polarguard 3D fill, 0/15 temperature range (zero with top on, 15 with it zipped off) fits up to 6ft tall. Never used. Retail is $239.00, my price: $135.00 Men's SD Evolution bag, 600 Down fill, 15/30 temperature range, fits to 6'6". Never used. Retail is $299.00, my price: $165.00 Wmn's SD Reaction bag, Polarguard 3D fill, 0/15 temp range, fits to 5'5" tall. Never used. Retail is $239.00, my price: $135.00 Wmn's SD Prism bag, 600 Down fill, 15/30 temp range, fits to 5'5" tall. Never used. Retail is $279.00, my price: $155.00 If you are interested or have questions, email me at danlan1@earthlink.net

Hey Eric, where's the report? I heard the route was looking pretty bear... - dan

Well, Tim came through with some awesome beta - thanks for his email address, Mike. At this point I'm not so sure I will attempt it this season...just too few days off and too many other options (on better rock). If I do give it a shot, I'll post the trip here... Thanks all! Dan

I climbed the west ridge July 31st. Conditions were excellent - no shrund yet in the gully and we could walk right up the middle of the glacier. We had a great climb and would have made a one day car to car ascent, but we made the mistake of taking the east ledges descent. We had never done this before and basically spent hours trying to figure out where the "ledges" were, how far to traverse, etc. You should be comfortable soloing on loose rock and exposed down-sloping dirt shelves if you choose to go this way. I recommend going back down the west ridge. Dan

Thanks Mike and John... Well I haven't received any beta yet, but then I just emailed Tim. Been out of town for awhile. I would guess from the few responses that this route doesn't see too many ascents? Dan

I'm looking for beta on the north buttress of Mt Johanessburg...anyone been up there lately? I've heard the lower half is crappy rock, but how bad is it? Is the technical climbing just a move here and there or sustained?

Dru Point taken...though for some reason I don't think of a Subaru as the greed-induced corporate climber's vehicle of choice. In fact I have no idea how much a 4-year old Subaru costs; my '86 4-Runner (with 235,000 miles) still gets me to the mountains!

I find it interesting that so many folks think "greed," (or its more evil cousin "corporate greed") is responsible for the growing popularity of mountain activities. Think about it. How many of you reading this got into climbing/backpacking/mountaineering because you were victims of corporate greed? (As opposed to getting into it because it was fun, relaxing, scary, beautiful, meditative, thrilling, etc.) When you buy a new piece of gear do you curse the greedy company that produced it? Here's some news: very few greedy people are making their money in the climbing industry. There's very little money here! Not compared to a thousand other industries...I have been close to the Outdoor industry since 1986 (either working in it, or having friends who worked in it) and I know that most companies producing climbing gear are small, barely solvent, and staffed by people passionate about their sport and lifestyle (and giving up the opportunity to make more money elsewhere in order to stay). Sure, competition between companies exists. Advances in technology and thinking lead to new designs. Everyone strives to be the best they can, and create the best they can create. But greed is hardly the basis. Other than a couple of notable exceptions, the CEOs of Outdoor and Climbing companies are driving four year old Subaru wagons, not BMWs. I agree with lots of others who've posted here: share the mountains with everyone, spread the philosophy of conservation and respect towards the natural environment, and if you enjoy solitude, go where no people are.