Scarpa Freney vs. Cumbre

[justplanecrazy]

Trying to decide which model I should go with. I plan on doing several long approaches like Robson and Forbes so I want something that doesn't hinder my approach but I also want something with enough support for some hard rock alpine routes and long snow/ice faces. I have plastics right now but need something that'll allow me to walk without looking like I belong on a ski hill. Will the Freney's work on stiff terrain?

[Alex]

Freneys will work in stiff terrain, however they are not made anymore. Do you mean the Freney XT? Its a very different boot than the Freney.

[justplanecrazy]

I believe its the 2004 model of the Freney Pro. I picked up the Cumbre 2003 model brand new for $300 CAD. I think they're a $5-600 boot now and are really well made. My only concern is that they feel a little clunky and have insulation in them. The Freney Pro feels like it would be a lot more forgiving on the long approaches but I don't know if it'll perform on the harder terrain. They have one for $300 also and it is regularly a $460 boot. Is the Cumbre geared for straight Ice and the Freney not usable on Ice? Should I trade the Cumbre for the Freney and use my plastics for Ice and the Freney for Alpine?

[PaulB]

I have a pair of Cumbres, but have only used them ice climbing, where I found them to be excellent. Haven't had a chance to try them out on rock or on mixed terrain. I can say that I find the asymmetrical last to feel a bit weird when walking on a flat road, at least compared to my Salomon SM9s.

[ridgeline]

I have the cumbres for 2 years now and ice climb with them all season. I have also used them for glacier travel on rainier. great ankle flex. great on vertical ice. Great on approaches. I think the Cumrbres are awesome, better than NP Extremes which i have also owned. I have a wider foot so that it just comes down to fit.

My "only" minor gripe is the rubber on the toe started to peel away somewhat soon.

Is this a valid reason for return?

[Mark_Husbands]

I'd wear my Freney XTs to do what you mentioned as long as its summer.

[Alex]

FWIW, I've found the XT way too hot to wear in the summer...

[Mark_Husbands]

for genuine summer climbing i have some old sportiva trangos i like. but i dont think i'd use them on a long snow and ice face if i expected to do any significant amount of frontpointing.

[John Frieh]

Freneys are too hot in the summer for me too unless I head to higher altitudes. With that said I still love them in the winter (I have a pair of the original blue ones).

 

but I also want something with enough support for some hard rock alpine routes and long snow/ice faces

 

Maybe I am reading this wrong but I would think you would be wearing rock shoes if you were climbing hard alpine rock routes... correct me if I am wrong here...

 

If you are shopping for only a summer boot consider something in the 2 lb/sub 2 lb range... La Sportiva and Garmont come to mind.

 

If you are shopping for something for a leather for year round use (and can only have one pair) get something insulated (similar to what you are already looking at) but understand your boots will get soaked in the summer from foot sweat.

 

Finally consider looking at boots from Kayland... they make a few models that fit your criteria (and their boots are sick!).