dberdinka Posted June 13, 2005 Posted June 13, 2005 For all that acreage of granite it blows my mind that only a handful of routes ever get done. OS and Orbit must take 95% of traffic with Iconoclast, Hyperspace and MJD taking another 4%. What's worth investigating in the other 1%? The other day I was eyeing the beautiful splitters on the East Face of Easter Tower and some awesome looking corners above it on an old line called Nailway. Both lines look stellar and probably just need a day of vigorous scrubbing. Anyone ever get on these? How about the Northern Dihedral? Evidently it's seen some traffic lately? Galaxy? Chimney Sweep? Chtong? All the acreage around April Fool's Tower? Whats up Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 13, 2005 Posted June 13, 2005 it gets some traffic over there....but why talk about it when there is those 5 routes you mentioned getting micro managed to death~! those routes you looked at dont need vigorous scrubbing...just traffic.... and for what its worth, whoever goes to the top of april fools tower probably will want to bring a new anchor (bolts) as the current one is rusty and shady. safe but shady!! Quote
lunger Posted June 13, 2005 Posted June 13, 2005 RPM to Regression (for the last pitch) is a spicy combo, more traffic would make it more fun. RPM is the passing lane for OS; starts left, intersects at the pedestal pitch, and continues right. The best pitch is probably the second, a 10b crack turning a roof. Climbed it Saturday, not too dirty for a neglected treat. (BTW, the occasional bolts, particularly on Regression, are suspect.) Give it a try! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 14, 2005 Posted June 14, 2005 RPM to Regression (for the last pitch) is a spicy combo, more traffic would make it more fun. sweet job e, did you go with the angry midget? Heard you went up to the towers....those are nice,eh?! when do you want to try another day or two in the toke wall area? Quote
lunger Posted June 15, 2005 Posted June 15, 2005 whattup szy. rpm w/ the reticent one, we had a good time. thanks, but didn't earn your compliment--didn't have my game face together for that first pitch, butchered it. gotta make it right some day. will gladly share any info. folks might want; that route deserves more traffic. yeah those towers, that area rocks! great weekend in your erstwhile parts. those locals ran this milquetoast into the ground. toke wall late summer, perhaps? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 15, 2005 Posted June 15, 2005 man or index inbetween. the route will only get more traffic when it gets retro'd Quote
mvs Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 Hey Michael I was thinking about Galaxy, is it that bad? Long corner, too brushy? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 galaxy is a major drainage for the wall. lots of brush, moss, dirt, ticks.. wow...that being said, I can't believe I haven't climbed it all the way yet! Looks like interesting climbing. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 Isn't White Slabs THE major drainage for the wall? That one has plenty of shruberies. Quote
layton Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 galaxy is a major drainage for the wall. lots of brush, moss, dirt, ticks.. wow...that being said, I can't believe I haven't climbed it all the way yet! Looks like interesting climbing. I added another pitch variation to it actually. 10c, small wires. free RP and HB offset anchor to those who dare go higher. 4 outta 5 on the suck factor. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 CBS...many times i wonder if you actually read/comprehend. I said "a" major drainage. Quote
fatswaller Posted June 24, 2005 Posted June 24, 2005 Galaxy is worth doing.Has good position on the upper pitches and the climbing is interesting.Also one of the longer routes on SCW. Quote
gyselinck Posted June 24, 2005 Posted June 24, 2005 We did Northern Dihedral a month or two ago. It was pretty sweet. I recomend the route, but beware, you might get some dirt in your eye. Oh, and it might not be a good idea (or it might be a good idea) depending on how you look at it to climb it on a weekend. All the shit that comes off drops right onto the first pitch of OS and it would really suck to kill somebody that way. It would be an even sweeter route if it was climbed a little more and cleaned. Bring a garden trowl. Quote
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