Dirtyleaf Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 What time should I start this route? I heard of the routefinding problems above pitch 14. Could someone give specific details on where to go after the bolts stop and what gear should I bring for this section. Are there any topo's? Any route info would be appreciated. I've checked out alpinedave's TR and one other, are there any other TR's or sites to check out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 8:34 am Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 8:34 am  I'd suggest an earlier start like 4:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 8:34 am and go up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 8:34 am  Are you crazy!?!?!?  You should start at 7:42.   The real answer depends on how fast you climb and what color windshirt you wear and how good you are at route finding and how many neutrinos you find - finding those neutrinos can be really distracting.  As for the rack. Take a few nuts, a few small cams, and a billion quickdraws.  Most people have to do a reconaissance trip to figure out the route finding before they actually get all the way up.  There are many, many, many better routes to do than IB.      Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted June 11, 2005 Author Share Posted June 11, 2005 Well I thought it was going to come down to the color of my socks and my selection of eye shadow and skin toner. I thought the whole windshirt/color phase thing was over. Whatever. Thanks for the pertinant info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Fox is right - a few small cams and some small nuts will come in handy. Â After pitch "14" (your count may vary), head right on grassy rampy terrain for maybe a half ropelength, maybe a little more, and start climbing straiht up again. We've been through this before, and last time I said there was a bush there somebody else insisted there wasn't and then ChucK chimed in that he saw a bush because he straddled it. Anyway, move a bit right and head upward again, heading for a fairly prominent crack/corner system in the headwall above. (From the top of pitch 14, you look up and you can see what appears to be the summit up and left, or a shoulder up and right; the route goes to that shoulder.) Â Plan on downclimbing in the area of that traverse on the descent. Â Consider bailing on your plans and doing something else if there are parties ahead of you. The route follows a rockfall funnel and there is plenty of loose rock. Â You'll need two ropes for the rappels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 (edited) check here . Â There is good information in that thread as well as links to other threads with good information. Â It could be that too much beta here will cloud your common sense, or it could be that the posted beta is misleading. The fact is, if you read those threads you will note that more than a couple people had route-finding problems despite/because of copious cc.com beta. Â If you get to the spot with no more bolts coming up, I would suggest thinking generally "what would I do if there were no more bolts" (because there aren't, for a while anyway). That oughta lead you to The Bush as it is the only obvious point of natural pro within a ropelength. Also keep in mind that you do have to go a bit right. Â Bring helmets, even if there are no parties ahead of you. I've had random rocks rain on me on that thing with noone above me. Â Â Oh, and as to your original question (time): depending on your skill level, you very well may not need an entire June day. However, I would recommend getting as early a start as possible (or earlier) because: 1) the tweety birds chirping at dawn make the approach hike so much milder 2) you really would rather not have people above you 3) if/when the sun comes up, you will bake 4) the best stuff is at the top, so you'd like every opportunity to get to that point 5) and if you get to the top, standard descent times appear to be in the 3 hour range Edited June 11, 2005 by chucK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted June 11, 2005 Author Share Posted June 11, 2005 Fox,MattP, and Chuck,thanks for the links and the info. That's exactly what I was looking for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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