Question about clean aid

[sweatinoutliquor]

I have been getting interested in aid climbing lately, particularly short bits of clean aid that are found on alpine routes of moderate difficulty. For example, so and so climb is rated 5.12 or 5.9 A2, the A2 part replacing a short bit of 5.12. Now I can handle 5.9, but I have to admit that I am not hard enough to run exposed trad pitches on 5.12 (maybe someday). In the meantime, I figure learning a bit of clean aid doesn't hurt, and could even be really useful in a pinch if things go sour in the mountains and could only help my trad climbing. My question: Is there a place in OR (closer to corvallis the better, but Smith is fine cause I am there enough) where I could work on this skill? Is it considered bad etiquette to free a climb, and then if nobody is waiting in line, practice aiding it, perhaps even on toprope? Is clean aid thought of as being detrimental to the rock (in the way nailing something is)? Thanks for any info you can help me out with. Please tell me if I am being an

[forrest_m]

clean aid is no more detrimental to the route than placing pro, so you're ok on that score. placing pitons on a route that goes clean (much less free on gear) is a BIG NO-NO.

 

i would say that you have every right to clog up a popular route for aid practice if that's what floats your boat, but you'll probably enjoy it more if you don't have the pressure of angry people waiting for you to finish. i don't know about other places in OR, but there are plenty of gear routes in the gorge at smith that a) accept gear for practicing and b) don't see that much traffic.

 

a few other notes: if you've never done aid, do your first pitch or two as a mock lead with a top rope. just in case.

 

regarding aid on alpine routes, remember that A0 and in many cases A1 or even A2 can go as "french free", i.e. place gear, pull on it, maybe throw your foot in the sling, whatever just to get past a 10-15' section. this is ugly, but usually a lot faster than breaking out the aiders (assuming you are even carrying them)

 

have fun. learning some basic aid skills opens up a lot of possibilities and will also improve your pro-placing skills. it also may come in handy on easier routes when that unexpected thunderstorm turns 5.7 into wet A1.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Thanks a bunch for the feedback forrest_m. For the record, I have no intention of bringing a hammer or pitons, etc. Good point on the line... I would much rather do this in an area without anybody waiting in line, so if you see somebody gumbying up Spiderman with aiders or something, it isn't me! I also planned on doing it with a toprope backup, figure I don't want to take one of the headfirst wipeouts that are so popular when an aid peice pulls on my first day. Anybody else out there gonna be pissed if you see a dude clean aiding something relativly easy in the gorge?

[Ireneo_Funes]

Have you been out to the Menagerie? Probably wouldn't need to worry about climbers lining up behind you impatiently out there.

[fenderfour]

FYI - Hooks are generally considered clean aid. They can scar the rock or pull off delicate flakes.

 

I would bring a hammer to make cleaning a little easier. It can be a bitch to pull out nuts after weighting them on aid. A few taps with a hammer will get them out much quicker and with less frustration than yarding on a sling.

[Bill_Simpkins]

I think that learning how to aid climb is a valuable tool no matter how you climb. It's helps you to place gear more efficiently and teaches you lots of tricks to get you out of bad situations or into better ones. It also helps you judge what peices placed are good ones and bad ones.

[Ireneo_Funes]

I would bring a hammer to make cleaning a little easier. It can be a bitch to pull out nuts after weighting them on aid. A few taps with a hammer will get them out much quicker and with less frustration than yarding on a sling.

 

That's what the #10 hex is for!

[sweatinoutliquor]

Thanks for all the valuable feedback all. I thought about a hammer (I don't own one) and figured that it may be counterproductive to my original intentions. I would like to try more serious aid climbing someday, but for now I am still super stoked about free climbing stuff, and for that, I don't think I would have a hammer with me for a short stretch of aid climbing (half pitch or so). I guess it wouldn't hurt to have one on the scene for practice if I can't get half of my peices out! Fenderfour... You mention that hooks are still considered clean aid, but that they can damage the rock... I had thought about bringing them, but again, don't want to piss anybody off. Maybe I will bring them just to give-em a try. I figure that the rock in the gorge is burley enough to take a hook here and there, and if it looks like I'm doing any harm I will stop. Hey Ireneo, any ideas of a good spot in the menagerie? All I am familar with is the rooster, chicken, hen area... Other suggestions?

 

I think that learning how to aid climb is a valuable tool no matter how you climb. It's helps you to place gear more efficiently and teaches you lots of tricks to get you out of bad situations or into better ones. It also helps you judge what peices placed are good ones and bad ones.

 

This is half of why I am interested in it! Thanks again everyone!

[fenderfour]

I would avoid using hooks on established routes, but I'm sure you can find an undeveloped area that can be hooked without pissing anyone off.

 

You don't need to buy an $85 Black Diamond hammer. Buy a 12-16 oz $12 ball-peen and drill a hole in the bottom of the handle for a keeper sling... or use a #11 hex.

[rbw1966]

A great route to practice clean aid is the west face of monkey face. There's even a bolt ladder on one of the pitches. You'll get plenty of opportunities to place a bunch of different gear, get a system dialed and I seem to recall I used a hook for a couple moves just below the cave.

 

Just the sight of a hammer can draw some ire so be careful.

 

Hooks can scar the rock but if you are careful you can avoid this. I love hooks!

[corvallisclimb]

practice at the columns in eugene, you can practice all sorts of tricks there, hand placing beaks, cam hooks, thin crackss and wider stuff. all about 40 feet high and top ropeable.

[Ireneo_Funes]

Hey Ireneo, any ideas of a good spot in the menagerie? All I am familar with is the rooster, chicken, hen area... Other suggestions?

 

That's the only area I've ever checked out, but I've heard that there's some aid lines on the Rabbit Ears, and of course the Turkey Monster. Not sure how good or bad the rock is over there.

[skymeat]

I've just begun aiding myself...Anybody climb the great white wall at flagstone? I've done the bolt ladder, but how much hooking is involved in the last pitch?