Szyjakowski Posted June 6, 2005 Posted June 6, 2005 There is a recent sport route to the far right of hindquarters, dogleg crack area...anyone know about it? Four bolts up crack-like features, steepish face crimping. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 6, 2005 Author Posted June 6, 2005 got some info. thanks rc. For anyone who cares: 4 bolts 5.11/12 30+ feet of climbing to an anchor that isn't at the top of the cliff. That makes me wonder....why the fuk not? Hard dirty climbing to that point though. CHEERS- Quote
Kyle_Flick Posted June 6, 2005 Posted June 6, 2005 Ben, Alec Gibbons and Brian Behle put that up as a 5.12 last year. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 6, 2005 Author Posted June 6, 2005 the more i think about it, the more i want to say, it is not 5.12. hey llama go spit on yourself...... Quote
pope Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 what a joke! Â Nothing surprises me. I've seen it all. Quote
larrythellama Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 "dood i am soo proud of my 30' contrivence, a real gift to the climbing community!" Quote
slaphappy Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 larry  although I agree that the route is... well, silly. (woulda been much better left as a toprope w/ the anchors actually at the top of the "cliff") Have you even seen it? Do you know it's a contrivance? Don't you live like 1000 miles from L-town? Quote
larrythellama Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 737 miles. was just up there a few weeks ago. i saw your truck! Quote
slaphappy Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 737 miles. Â I wasn't far off considering I was shooting from the hip. Congrats on gettin hitched. My truck? gee big surprise. Â but did you see the route? When you climbed it, was it contrived? Quote
larrythellama Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 i walked right past it, not too interested in contrivences anyways, you should already know that. Quote
telemarker Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 Since we're on the subject of Alphabet Rock...someone took one of the hangars (and the accompanying chain) at the top of Meatgrinder. Really no big deal, since there's still one hangar and beefy chain, alongside a nice crack to put a second piece. In fact, one could easily set up a gear anchor without using the fixed anchor, so why would this person steal only one of the hangars/chain? Quote
telemarker Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 Oh...I thought it had something to do with principle, bolting next to a good crack.... Quote
tomtom Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 Because they were trying to discourage folks from lowering off the chains? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 7, 2005 Author Posted June 7, 2005 that chain and bolt used to be just sitting in the dirt next to the crack. but this past sunday it was gone. Damn rockfest.... Quote
telemarker Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 Because they were trying to discourage folks from lowering off the chains? Â I bet people will still lower off the single bolt and chain to avoid the 3rd class downclimb. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 7, 2005 Author Posted June 7, 2005 my buddy rapped off the single chain on sunday. someone should just put the chain back and glue it on. Quote
Stretch75 Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 I climbed Meat Grinder on Saturday at about 4pm, and both hangers and chains were there. We had one party of two jump on the route after us..... Quote
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