Solo permit approved again this year.........

[Divot]

And am very happy once again to play on the hill.

Last time it was approved, it was 2003, however an OK year for climbing on certain routes.

This year as we all know (or any season), conditions warrant a not so relaxed approach. I might be interested in perhaps staying within the realm of reality and adventure, and perhaps get some clues as to some decent routes (given the conditions) to forcast a summit run.

 

Hints??????????

 

Thanks folks.....hope to get to know you all, aswell as some feed back.

[Chriznitch]

if you went through the process of getting a solo permit don't you at least have something in mind?

[Bill_Simpkins]

When is Success Cleaver usually in?

I had fun on the DC alone.

It was fun jogging back to Muir from the Cleaver in a lightning storm.

[Divot]

What I initially should have said, given the fact that this forum has a high rate of actual climbers and less so called "armchair enthusiast climbers", that perhaps I would be able to get some decent beta on routes that they have actually climbed (solo or not) recently, and say " hey, so and so route seem sketchy, crevasses are opening up, or maybe, so and so route is wanded well."

Sorry for not being specific on my request, I just wished there may be others which do the same as I do and and the skill to do it, and have something to share.

 

Thanks for pointing that out Chiznitch.

[mattp]

Watch for a good weather window when it hasn't significantly snowed for six or eight weekds. Make your climb on an itinerary that is just a day after the typical weekend one, and take ski poles with small or no baskets to probe the edges of any crevasses you may encounter.

[Divot]

Sounds good mattp, I got a pair of whippets that are perfect for that exact thing.

I carry only one along with my axe unless I plan to be doing some sking.

I just wish the weather wouldn't be so jumpy lately, I mean, in order for me to figure out if its gonna be good, I literaly have to sit for hours on weather.com's site for days to make sure....But hey, I guess that's what ya gotta do.

Thanks Man,

Maybe see ya up on the hill sometime, I'll just look for the Red, Grey, and Blue hat.

[snowball]

Ive seen solo climbers on Kautz Glacier route if thats any indication of comfort level...

[Divot]

Sounds good, I was contemplating that aswell as perhaps the Em/Win, and Lib. Ridge soon. We will see.

Thanks for the beta!

[Chriznitch]

well, sitting here on my butt, it's pretty easy for me to say go for one of the cleavers. These are rarely climbed and would offer a challenging adventure fit for the solo'er. Long approaches are important considerations/turnoffs, but you could earn bragging rights if you've got the energy to do one of these long hauls

[sobo]

Several folks on this board have soloed Liberty Ridge (I haven't and don't intend to), but I have soloed the Kautz and Fuhrer's Finger with no probs. Mebbe give one of those a try? You'll only have the lower Nisqualley to worry about crevasses, as most of the Kautz and FF routes are along ridges or non-crevassed expanses, except for a short span at the top of the Wapowety Cleaver where the two routes join up and head for the crater rim area.

[Divot]

Sounds like something I can look into Sobo, I have considered Kautz for a few days aswell as the Finger. I plan on walking the lower Nisqualley tomorrow as a quik run through and perhaps wands a few spots a a back up.

 

I hope things will work out with plans as I am formulating a plan to solo the Kautz on Friday night/Saturday.

 

We will see what happens between now and then.

 

Thanks!

[slothrop]

You can do a glacier-free approach to the Kautz high camp via Van Trump Park, leaving from the Comet Falls TH. The approach is described well in Gauthier's book. More vertical gain involved than the normal route, but fewer crowds and it sure is perty. Nice camps at 7000+', 9200', and 10200', take your pick.

[Divot]

Thanks Slothrop,

I am going with the original route, however, I'm going back next week and try your Comet falls recomendation for that solo run aswell.

 

I appreciated all the folks which gave me all this good beta, and hope to make it a worth while trip from my end the days after tomorrow.

Sorry I dont have a digital camera to play with to share all the photos, I am poor and need to save my pennies, but my heart is rich with that which I experience.

 

Thanks again......

Will send a TR ASAP