North Face - Mt. Shuksan (2/26/01 - 2/27/01)

[mrefranklin]

So my buddy and I were looking for a spectacular winter climb and thought that this would be it. Forecast called for clear skies, cool nights, so we expected some snow consolidation to put the route in shape. Well I'm here to tell you that this year's low snow coverage makes this route more than a little bush-whacky. I have heard horror stories of the spring and summer approaches on this climb requiring crampons to get through the slick rocks, vegetation, and downed timber, even though there isn't snow there at that time. Well, now imagine the same approach with many of those obstacles hidden or just plain slick as snot.

Right now, I honestly do not believe that the route can be safely completed in two days. My climbing partner and I are both in good shape and regularly beat the time estimates given for routes in guide books. Well, in this case the guidebooks said that it would take us up to 6 hours to reach high camp. It took us 8 HOURS of utter post-hole drudgery. Scaling slick timber and sparse snow coverage is quite a lesson in abject humility. Even better are the open powder field of waist deep snow with breakable crust (sarcasm).

We did reach high camp and awoke at 1 AM for an alpine start on the North Face. We were climbing be 3 AM after breaking down our bivy site, melting more water and a quick breakfast of oatmeal. It took us a solid hour of breaking trail to reach the very lowest section of the North Face. What we found is not terribly encouraging. The snow is knee to thigh deep. While climbable, this is definitely not the stuff that will give you fond memories of the place. My partner and I made the correct decision in turning around at that point because it took us another 7 hours to get back to the car. This is no fun at the moment. If the terrain was flatter and I wasn't worried about conserving the wilderness, I'd tell you to bring a machete.

Now, for the big WARNINGS y'all are probably looking for:

1. There is a very real threat of avalanche with all of this loose new snow over a skimpy base. If you cannot summit and be back down through the danger zone by 9-10 AM or so, DO NOT DO IT. We heard a larger avalanche in the middle of our approach day around noon.

At present, the route may make a beautiful 3-day adventure with a second bivy below the Summit Pyramid after a successful summit day.

2. DO NOT DESCEND DIRECTLY DOWN THE VALLEY ALONG WHITE SALMON CREEK. While the top of the descent is quicker, it is prone to major slides on several sides, and funnels you into a morass of covered trees, scrub, and converging creek beds. The lower section of this valley is post-holing at its absolute ugliest.

I strongly suggest exiting close to the way that you came in. Stay in the trees for consolidated snow an on the way down even if you have to climb or traverse a little bit to do so. When you can take the trees pretty much the whole way, angle for the clear cut area below chair 8 at Mt. Baker Ski Resort. This will also insure that you cross the creek after all of the drainages have funneled into it. Why cross more than you asolutely have to?

Ascend the tree line on either side of the clear cut. Use trees, bushes, and whatever else you can find to haul yourself up. Keep an eye out for ascendable tracks in the cut. We found the tracks of a wayward snowboarder that had to hike out. This track saved us at least on hour since it was so firm and consolidated in the prints. It's a pity the poor guy didn't ride all of the way down the cut into the valley. We only got to use his prints for the last 150-200 vertical feet.

In Summation: You can do this route with a favorable weather window and by taking precautions in the avalanche terrain. I think that it is currently a three day route, but a decent consolidation period with warm temps could put the route in good shape in no time at all. Extreme bushwhack approach and exit. Keep that in mind. If you're good climber, the approach is probably the current crux of the route.

[philfort]

Wow.... I had semi-fantasized about doing a winter climb of the N face, followed by a ski descent of the White Salmon - guess your report will put a stop to that fantasy!

Which side of the valley did you do the approach on? We did the approach in early June last year, and it only took 3 hours from the road to the base of the N face - we thought the rigors of the approach were grossly exaggerated! Even a group who followed the approached described in Becky only took 4 hours. (not dissing your 8 hour time - obviously it's a lot slower in deep snow than on spring hardpack)

We followed the east side of shuksan arm from the ski area, then crossed the White Salmon valley above the brush. Although the traverse we did is somewhat threatened by avalanches (almost got nailed by one on the return), there was hardly any bushwhacking.

Did you guys have skis/snowshoes?

Did the White Salmon glacier look very crevassed?

And, lastly, was the snow powdery, good for skiing? (e.g. in the open, above treeline, on the N facing slopes). (still thinking about skiing the white salmon)

Phil

[mrefranklin]

We followed the route prescribes in Beckey which is basically in the tree line from the get-go. Our ascent to high camp was mostly in the trees on the east side of the valley. The problem was that any time that we came to an opening, especially higher up, the snow was incredibly deep. We did not have snow shoes and the snow looked great for a ski or snowboard descent. Despite the bushwhacking, we moved pretty quickly when in the trees, it was only open spaces (probably due to a lack of knowledge of the area) that nailed us. The snow is currently too deep on the North Face to call it a climb. Right now, it's more of a straightforward posthole slog.

With a little consolidation, the route will be in great shape for climbing very soon so keep your eyes peeled. How was the traverse on the Shuksan Arm?

[philfort]

The traverse was pretty straightforward - over the lower hump of the ski area, through open areas and old growth forest, until you reach the upper basin (descending very slightly). This would be horrible later in the year, because the traverse across the upper basin would probably be extremely brushy.

There are a few little canyons to cross on the traverse, but they were mostly still snow-filled for us.

Traverse is on fairly gentle slopes, but there are very steep slopes above for much of the way.

[dennis_crowley]

I am glad you slogged all the way out there. It looks like it is time for a snowboard descent of the north face. It has been skied but I haven't heard of anyone snowboarding it. If it is a snow slog like you say it is time.

[AlpineK]

You silly boys! Take some skis in the winter. I've skied the slopes below the north face. They are loads of fun plus you can be back to the ski area in an hour.

I'm concidering a ski decent of the north face in April. Anyone interested? I'll be out of town for the rest of the month, but send me an email. kurtfick@qwest.net

[mrefranklin]

I only wish I had taken my snowboard. If that had been the case, I definitely would have ascended the full face to drop some turns in the goods. You better hurry up and go get your snowboard descent or I may beat you to it. I would take snowshoes if I were you, even though you'll only use them a little bit, it will save quite a bit of time crossing open powder fields.

[mikeadam]

So sorry....

It has been reliably reported to me during a ski descent that there were snowboarders visually confirmed descending the NF of Shuksan. This was several years ago.

I would say getting any first, second or even third descent or ascent in the Cascades is a pipe dream boyz...

Mike http://alpinelite.com

[dennis_crowley]

If someone has ridden it on a stick let us hear who it is because I don't believe it until I see pictures or see reliable names. I found that not even the Bellingham herald reported accurately about Georges supposed Northwest coulior descent. When confronted he admitted the paper made a mistake he did not ride the whole coulior. So I went out and rode it claiming first descent. If you think their are no first descents left your high. According to the tacoma news tribune no one has even set foot on rainiers north face in ten years. So if your a really sick dude go out and climb, then drop in on the thermogenesis coulior. Then if you can beat me to that in the next month I will be trying a first descent of the coleman headwall and the north ridge. So please Show me what's up with some proof they call them pictures. until I see them I don't believe it like Aliens.

[Wallstein]

We all know spray doesn't count for squat around these parts.

So lets see your pics Dennis?

Hey your mistaken about the coleman headwall and the north ridge, <SPRAY>I rode down both of those with a McDonald's meal tray duct taped to my feet. And you better hurry I am going for the north face of Rainier and sending the THERMONUCLEAR coulior. And don't worry USA Today is going to be there to take pics so EVERYONE KNOWS I AM WAY SICK!!!! </SPRAY>

[This message has been edited by Wallstein (edited 03-16-2001).]

[mikeadam]

Martin Volken spoke to me about a snowboarder on TNF of Shuksan several years ago. I seriously doubt he took pictures of another party...if someone didn't report it, well yeah for them...probably some euro who cranks off the side of Le M every other day and wanted an easy day while visiting our little alps...who cares...I reported to the forum what I gathered during that conversation...first descents in general is what I referred to not the less than ideal lines...next time i'll clarify and not make generalizations...I'll look for your photos..until then...

 

[philfort]

By the way Dennis,

The North Ridge (of Baker, I assume you meant) was skied last summer (as documented in the lastest issue of Backcountry magazine, with many pictures), so "all" you'll get is a first snowboard descent :-)

Unless of course you actually snowboard down the ice cliff, in which case then you can claim a "first complete descent", as the "first descentionists" rappeled the ice cliff.

Also, you said: "According to the tacoma news tribune no one has even set foot on rainiers north face in ten years". What about the well-publicized incident of the guy who died skiing Liberty Ridge 2 years ago? Since when is the Tacome News Tribune the authority on first descents?

As for Shuksan's North Face, I would be very suprised if it hadn't seen a snowboard descent, as I get the feeling it is skied quite regularly (when we were there, there was a solo skier attempting it - I think he also mentioned he had skied Liberty Ridge).

I do however, disagree with Mike's statement "I would say getting any first, second or even third descent or ascent in the Cascades is a pipe dream boyz".

Phil

 

[rayborbon]

Not surprised. Good job for you guys!

[W]

I know a lot of people who go out skiing and snowboarding big faces in the Cascades and don't tell many about it. So don't assume anything hasn't been skied or ridden. Especially if you're spraying. Also, the News Tribune article, if we're talking about the same one, was about how no one has tried climbing the Willis Wall routes in 10 years, it said little or nothing about skiing it if I remember. FYI, I was climbing Ptarmigan Ridge in 1995 and watched two guys making figure 8's down Liberty Ridge nearby. And btw Dennis, the first descent of Thermogenesis has been accomplished already, it belongs to David Persson. But I hope you look better after your descent of Thermogenesis than he did; I would know- I'm the one who put him in a body bag. Be careful.

 

[Dru]

Hey, Dave Persson was a friend of mine. He even left me a #3 Tri Cam, now I'm the only person in the whole world to have 2 of them. If you can find a copy of the 1999-2000 Varsity Outdoor Club Journal and read his 20-page tick-list/ philosophy statement you might find you understand him a little better. I never knew anyone so dedicated to the mountains except maybe Alex Lowe and I didn't actually know him so...

A few months before the Lib Ridge tragedy DP was on Shuksan for a winter ascent with some other friends. The party climbed the N. face and continued to the summit. On the way back they went to descend the N. face. DP put on his skis and disappeared from view. As they descended he reappeared, climbing back up. He went to the top of the face and skiied it again, catching up with them at the bottom and heading out. how many others have yo-yo skiied the N face of Shuksan?? Dave was the man for sure.

A memorial of some sort to Dave will be guerilla-installed on Liberty Ridge if we ever get around to constructing it.

[W]

Dru,

I hope I didn't give the wrong impression, I absolutely in no way meant any disrespect to your friend nor was I questioning his decisions or actions. I was using his accident to make a point to someone else in the thread who seemed in my opinion to lack perspective. Some of my closest friends are hardcore skiers and snowboarders, and I myself climb and take tangible risks of my own. My friends and I who recovered David all saw him in the light that it could have just as well been any of us given the risks we all take. And it's strange, too, I bet had he made it down safely, all the naysayers who said "see, look what happens!" would have been saying "wow, that was cool" instead.

By the way, he was skiing the ridge on 3 pin gear, which is enough to make most people pucker up thinking about it. He had climbed the ridge the day before from Thumb Rock, while his partners rested, exhausted and altitude sick, and skied it from 13,000'. The same day, I might add, that they had climbed to Thumb Rock from the Carbon. The next day, he and one partner went all the way to Columbia Crest and were returning to Thumb Rock when he had his accident. I heard a lot more about him from his family and the investigation afterwards and he sounded like an incredibly dedicated man. I did also read in some written statements from his partners and an adjacent climbing team that Dave was rather cavalier. Nonetheless, though I never knew him, I get the feeling that Dave probably was doing what he did with his eyes wide open. Unfortunately he paid the ultimate price, one he was obviously prepared to accept.

[This message has been edited by W (edited 03-19-2001).]

[Dru]

W, no disrespect was perceived. I just figured since Dave had been mentioned I could safely bring up his yo-yo ski of the NF of Shuksan. Dave was an endurance monster, that's for sure. And yes, not always the safest guy. Robin decided to downclimb that day on Rainier, David thought he could ski it. Guess Robin was right - he's still alive anyways.

My favorite Persson quote - on trying to climb the legendary "Pipeline" on the Stawamus Squaw. He mentions how he was lured on to the route by the guidebook comment about the modern availability of wide protection, then says "As I tried to place my #4 Camalot in the 8" crack I felt like an ant trying to rape an elephant."

[Dru]

Since I'm talking about Dave I should maybe point out that he wasn't always disdainful of safety. Him and JF had a big epic on a winter ascent of Baker N ridge, falling into crevasses in a whiteout and whatnot. Several months later the 3 of us did the NF of Rideout. After 18 hours on the go we had descended the s. face and were preparing to cross a six foot deep snow slab over rock to regain the basin to the east. DP was the one who insisted we rope up in case there were crevasses!

[Sean_Halling]

Just wondering who "W" is? I figure I've narrowed it down, hearing you talk about the Persson SAR and all. SeanHalling@hotmail.com

[fishstick]

I met a guy 3 or 4 years ago who claimed to have ridden Shuksan. Unsure of his name, but at the time I guess he was about 26 or 27 years old and lived in Glacier. My gut impression was that he knew what he was talking about.

[dennis_crowley]

I respect all the people out riding big faces on whatever gear they choose. I love to hear about people climbing and riding. Dave obviously was a sick rider willing to take real risks. Style is everything to me. If you ski a route with belays I don't consider that a real descent. Andrew Mclean thinks he is a real bad ass with his roped up descent of the mowich face. Nothing more than a glorified rappel to me. I never met your friend Dave but it sounds like he was a helluva rider with serious descents. I am stoked to hear that someone rode the north ridge on skiis and I'm sure that If I don't get some sick bastard will ride the ice claiming complete descent. I am currently still trying to ride shuksan. I went out to the north face March 28th and was climbing on the 29th. A huge slab broke off the arm filling the valley floor. If you plan on skiing out on tele skiis think again or you might die. Hiking,climbing,walking or snowshoeing under the hanging glacier is also very stupid. The only reason I point this out is because every time I go out there I see ski tracks in the main gullies. This last climbing trip I saw people ski directly under the icefall stop strap on and ride next to 50 feet deep 3 mile long avalanche debris. My trip was stopped half way up the face by some serious sluffing.

[philfort]

Man, you sound like one bitter person. I'm sorry.

Where did you hear that Andrew McLean used belays on the Mowich Face? The article in Couloir magazine certainly didn't mention anything about that.

quote:

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I respect all the people out riding big faces on whatever gear they choose.

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quote:

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If you plan on skiing out on tele skiis think again or you might die.

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hmm.

Hope you succeed in riding the NF safely. I'm sure you'll tell us about it.

[bil_efff]

"If you plan on skiing out on tele skiis think again or you might die. "

Double Hmmm.

I saw three sets of ski tracks etched onto the NW couloir this Friday. One of them was made by a tele skier. By Saturday afternoon, the face had warmed enough that serveral big slides came down off the face, washing through the narrow part of the couloir that the skiers ascended and descended through.

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Clear skies on Friday night did little to cool down the snowpack. It was thigh deep garbage april snow turning to slush halfway up the NF which turned soft the rest of the way with slush layer on top.

The ski down to the White Salmon was quite nice. The White Salmon was truly forgettable and unforgettable. Small skier-triggered point releases on the bottomless slush caused the top six inches to slide and gather enough momemtum to end up down in the valley. The resulting avy scour path was probably the safest down, but not fun for skiing. The bottomless mush alternative was just as unfun. Noon was already too late for a safe descent. In another month after some melt-freeze, however, the White Salmon could be a sweet summer ski.

There were no crevasses that we saw on our descent line which was generally to the far skier's right of the White Salmon. If we had traversed far left at the start, I think we could have avoided some of the steeper slopes.

The ski traverse back to chair 8 won't be there much longer, at least in the thick wooded portion.