Edge of Pan: Squamish

[peas]

Anyone have any beta on this route? First hand, second hand, lies, slander. Any info is useful.

[crazyjizzy]

After a failure on the Pan, did it in '94 with Doug Klewin. I remember pitch 2 being long, and rather convoluted, with tension and lots of traverses. Pitch 3 was non-memorable. The long aid pitch #4 was really cool, lots of good nailing. Doug fell on the last pitch, #5. After that I don't remember the little sixth pitch as shown in McLane's book.

[bigwalling]

Where is Doug now? I'd be interested in asking him a few questions about some routes at Index. also my truck is fucked! 3k but I only pay 500 cause of insurance.

 

Peas, what is up? I haven't talked to you in a long time!

[dberdinka]

You're going to die!

[peas]

After a failure on the Pan, did it in '94 with Doug Klewin. I remember pitch 2 being long, and rather convoluted, with tension and lots of traverses. Pitch 3 was non-memorable. The long aid pitch #4 was really cool, lots of good nailing. Doug fell on the last pitch, #5. After that I don't remember the little sixth pitch as shown in McLane's book.

 

Any comments on useful gear to bring?

[crazyjizzy]

We did some nailing. Some KB's, quite a few LA's, some babes. A few heads, no(?) rurps. There was some tied off pins. Nuts to 4". I would say A3. Harder than Uncle Bens, cleaner and easier than Wrist Twister, lots easier than Humpty Dumpty.

[Dru]

my copy of the campbell guide says

15 - kb, la

4 - 1/2", 5/8"

3 - 3/4", 1"

1 - 1.25", 1.5"

 

many wired nuts and hooks

[dberdinka]

I'm of the impression that Doug Klewin was a bad-ass aid climbing mother-f%#ker. If he fell off the fifth pitch does that mean it's friggin terrifying, and what happened to the guy anyway. Still out there crankin?

[marc_leclerc]

I know I am resurrecting an ancient thread here, but I would like to just say that part of this route is now a free climbing project, and all the moves have gone and I would like to ask people not to use hammers and pins if aiding this climb.

 

The project goes from the start of Lower Pan Tease final pitch and climbs the face out right to the belay below the huge corner (pitch 4 of Edge of Pan) The Huge corner is a VERY good free climbing pitch and with modern gear is easily aidable without pins. Above this the climb joins Upper Pan Tease....

 

Repeated nailing in this crack would leave scars that would make the climb much easier as there would be fingerlocks rather than palming/stemming the whole way...

[dberdinka]

As if anyone has aided that thing in the last 30 years......

[bstach]

Nice subtle chest beat.

[Frankazoid]

bstach,

 

This is standard procedure when a route goes free... I don't think anyone is chest beating. just climbing hard, and sharing new info on the route.

[bstach]

It was meant tongue-in-cheek. I'm just jealous. You go, Marc!

[rocketparrotlet]

Way to go Marc! Glad to hear that route worked out, keep us updated if you redpoint!

[jmace]

http://sonnietrotter.com/roadlife/