[TR]Mt Edgar - Chilliwack Lake

[Dru]

Fred Touche, Robin McKillop and I slogged up Mt Edgar (2061m/6700'+) today in a brief sucker hole.

 

We could 4x4 to the end of Paleface Creek road, with Robin's 4Runner. If we'd had a Subaru we would have had to walk 8kms more.

 

From the end of the road we crossed a brushy area through an old clearcut, picked up open forest and followed it to treeline, then followed a bench on the north side of the SE ridge, under some neat pinnacles, and on to the summit.

 

It took 3h up from the car, and 1h 10min back down. Then we went to Chilliwack to eat pie at the airport.

 

The snow was sloppy, but not so bad you needed snowshoes.

 

It stopped raining from the time we began the bushwack, to 50m below the summit, and it rained the rest of the time. In between the rain we got some nice views of the head of Depot Creek, and Chilliwack Lake.

 

What we could see of N face of Redoubt, looked good. Some seracs were showing blue ice already.

 

The N face couloir on Nodoubt looks awesome, I wonder if it has ever had a second ascent? One to add to the tick list.

 

Fashion faux pas: Fred wore a black lycra "action suit". This was more action than suit As the doctor said to the naked crazy man, "Well, I can see your nuts"

 

Robin had a Seattle Sombrero on

 

I took TWO, yes 2 windshirts, and still wore my Goretex jacket instead. BOTH of the windshirts were dead weight in the pack.

 

There was no technical climbing involved on this peak. It was reportedly first climbed by the Boundary Survey c. 1860, but we didn't find a cairn. We didn't build one either.

 

The pie was pretty good. Robin and Fred had the standard raspberry-blueberry with vanilla icecream. I had "Bavarian Rhubarb". Such a culinary experience

[hubris]

Nice! Glad to see Robin could make it with his truck. I've walked the Paleface Mainline twice now. Don F and I bailed on Nodoubt last fall....good lookin peak! Did Fred break trail the entire day? Or does he just do that for me

Edited May 16, 2005 by hubris

[Dru]

Under the deal Fred and I have, I lead all the "hard" pitches, and he kicks all the steps . There were no hard pitches today, so I just drafted.

[Dru]

 

Nodoubt.

[Stemalot]

cool. the thing's got some nice lines on it.

[peas]

Under the deal Fred and I have, I lead all the "hard" pitches, and he kicks all the steps . There were no hard pitches today, so I just drafted.

 

Jeez, what did you have to do to get that deal?

[Dru]

The deal is open to anyone who can lead harder than Fred, ie. can lead 5.8 or WI4

 

Even John Millar had a hard time breaking his share of trail when he was out with Fred though. The guy's the ultimate stamina machine.

[Stemalot]

MUTANT!

[luwayo]

nice lines, i agree! but Nodoubt involved A LOT of bushwacking most of the way to the ridge. i don't mind bushwhacking (but not thru devil's club: incidentally, beware the evil bush is *budding* now!).

 

from the start, as in not long after leaving the 4x4, we were pressing full body weight on to fat tentacles of slide alder to squeeze a passage thru. i remember musing about mutant man-eating slide alder wrapping itself around a sorry victim. after the tentacles, it became merely steep & brushy. and then there were hornets. as much as gaiters are ridiculed here, brush & hornets give me good enough reason to wear them. we were fairly close to the base of the summit, but the group i was with wasn't interested in bagging the peak.

Edited May 17, 2005 by luwayo

[crazyjizzy]

Except for his hat, that Robin McKillop dude sounds cool, does he post here?

[Steddy]

what kind of wind shirts did you take? like, it is probably your shopping criteria that rendered them dead weight in the pack!