What kind of ROPE should I buy?

[acmcmurray]

My question is what type of rope should I get for a 3 person team going up the Kautz Glacier on Rainer this August? I already have a 60m, 10.5mm DRY rope but feel that is way to big and too heavy. I have been looking at "Mammut Revelation 9.2mm x 60m Dry Rope" and the like. Would this be good for Rainer and other mountains in my future. What would be some of your suggestions. Thanks!

[fenderfour]

The 10.5 will be just fine. If you want to buy more gear, then go ahead and buy a new rope. The Beal Joker is a bit lighter than the the Revelation.

 

Kautz in August? You might want to have a backup plan.

 

Disclaimer: I haven't taken any NOLS courses, nor have I at any time prostrated myself to the gods of retail sales. Based on this, I am probably underqualified to comment on gear selection.

[thelawgoddess]

many people use their fat ropes. not really worth buying a new rope if you're hardly going to use it!

[knelson]

A third vote for "just use your 10.5 rope."

 

Just expect the snide comments from the "climber elite" as you drag it out of your trunk. ("Wow... think that guy brought his skinny rope?!! Gfaw gfaw gfaw")

 

IMO, you won't notice the extra weight on the climb you're doing. Now if you had some heinous, long, non-roped approach, I'd say spring for the lighter rope.

 

-kurt

[Dru]

just buy 30m of 7mm static cord and use that.

[Farva]

If you're looking for a glacier rope, you don't even need a "single" rope. For 3 people, a 50m/60m 8/8.5 works great. If you use a skinny rope you might have to play with your prusiks to make them stick. Your current rope will work also, but a 10.5 will get super heavy when it gets wet.

 

Based on this, I am probably underqualified to comment on gear selection.

 

You can say that again

[Dr_Crash]

On glaciers I use a 37 m 8.4 mm double (Sterling, whatever was cheap on a 30% off sale in PDX last year); perfect length for up to 4 people. Beal makes a "Randonnee" rope which is cheap and good for glaciers but not for climbing.

 

drC

[tomtom]

Buy my rope! 8.8mmx50m Sterling Marathon Dry Rope.

[JasonSmith]

I am in a similar predicament, trying to decide between a Beal Joker and a Bluewater Exellence. I like the concept of doubles and am heavily leaning in that direction. The rope will mostly be used as a double although I like the idea that you can belay 2 seconds with the joker and a reverso. Hearing the reviews I am wondering if the Bluewater Exellence is much more durable than the Joker. I am still a relative newbie to climbing starting 2 years ago at college. As I have just graduated I need my own rope(s). Right now I am just starting to get into leading easy climbs and also plan to start trying short Ice routes this upcomming winter with an expirenced friend.

 

Basically what is the durability like on both these ropes, or is their a better choice I missed. The rope needs to have passed the sharp edge test in a double configuration.