knotzen Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Has anybody summitted Whitehorse around this time of year? Did you need to do a double-rope rappel? Three of us going next week and the trip leader wants to take two ropes. Waiting to hear back on the 'why,' but I figure he must be expecting to do a double-rope rap off the summit block. Yeah, I'm new here, so be nice, OK? OK. Glad that's settled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 No clue here in Whitehorse, but I wanted to be the first to welcome you to the sometimes brutal but always informative CC.com! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 I think it may be more than half a rope length if you rappel directly off the summit, but maybe 50 feet west I think it is less. I didn't see any anchors because it was covered in crusty snow when I was there, and it was only slightly scary downclimbing it in ski boots. There is a moat right there, so you are not worried about taking the big ride, but it could be a nasty little fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 When we did it there happened to be another team so we put our ropes together which elimintaed some 50 degree downclimbing... so although we used 2 ropes although it wasn't entirely necessary. A single 60 will get you down to some steepish downclimbing. We climbed it in Mid-March of last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Wait...Whitehorse Mountain by Darrington? What route? The standard "glacier" route from either the trail or snow gulch? If that is what you are doing I dont see why you would need to repell anything, let along with two ropes. When I did it the summit was simple a few feet of steep snow climbing followed by like 2 feet of rock. I can't attest to later in the year but nothing like a rope was nescessary nor have I heard of people using them on Whitehorse. In any event, use your own discrecsion and certainly dont leave safety gear home on my recommendation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 I have the same recollection as Josh. I few feet of not that steep snow followed by a little scramble and it was done. I do remember seeing some webbing around a horn and thinking what was somebody doing repelling this? If you want to bring a rope you will not be the first group to do so, but we made it without one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Early season it's easy, late season there is a huge moat with a close by slot on 50 degree(ish) ice. I didn't bring a rope, but probably should have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotzen Posted May 4, 2005 Author Share Posted May 4, 2005 Well, we're bringing one rope, because we'll be crossing the glacier (although I've heard it's basically a snowfield this time of year). I'll recommend against taking along a second rope--why should 3 people be carrying 2 ropes? I don't think it will be necessary. Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotzen Posted May 4, 2005 Author Share Posted May 4, 2005 Hey, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Let us know what it is like up there at the top. I'm curious how the moat filled in with this crazy snow season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 It was pretty steep when we were there. Plus the snow was kind of rotting. Here is a picture of the rappel. I have heard of people rappeling and/or turning around due to steepness without a rope: But it's true, a 25 meter rappel is enough to get past the really steep part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 Hopefully your climb leader's not planning this kind of rapping off of Whitehorse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knelson Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 Hopefully your climb leader's not planning this kind of rapping off of Whitehorse. ZOWIE!!! At least the "things learned" list was pretty good and comprehensive, and not just "Remember to leave earlier." -kurt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 That was a good read. But dang, just to comment from the peanut gallery, rappelling in complete darkness is just asking to get hung up somewhere, as they did. It's not like you can pretend you'll make it to the car before morning with such fumblings. So just wait it out. I'd much rather wave the helicopter away in the morning as I descended correctly thanks to light. Anyway, glad they made it safely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 Glad they made it too. You can easily get to trail territory from the summit in less than two hours via Lone Tree Pass. Even though there was snow, there are usually tracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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