[TR] Silver Star- W face couloir (Allen/Keller) 4/23/2005

[scott_johnston]

Climb: Silver Star-W face couloir (Allen/Keller)

 

Date of Climb: 4/23/2005

 

Trip Report:

We could wait no more for cold conditions to return to the North Cascades and wanted to get on this route before it went away for the season; so Colin Haley and I headed up to check out the route on the W face of SS that Mark Allen and Anne Keller had done a month or so ago.

{Times are given for reference only}

We left the road at 6:45 and found pretty ugly snow conditions right off the bat. At Colin's suggestion we doned snow shoes (something I am loathe to admit). It turned out to be a much better idea than skis. We left these infernal devices above the larch bench just as we started our traverse from the Burgandy col trail to out under the W face. Snow here was much firmer and we soon had cramps on for the rest of the way. Finding the right gully start is no biggy if you scope from the road. I knew my way around this area pretty well already as you start up the descent gully for Gato Negro.

Started up the main gulley around 9am. Staying in the main couloir we never got out the rack and only used the rope in one spot. The conditions were pretty standard gully stuff. Firm to medium firm snow which allowed usually for 2-3 inches of boot penetration but some sections were on front points only. There has been a ton of snow sliding down this thing recently so conditions were no doubt different than a month ago. Angle is generally around 45 degrees with a couple spots a bit steeper.

 

The first chock stone in the main lower section had only ice on the left edge; none on the right where Anne and Mark seemed to go. Colin soloed up this step (photo)nicely but dislodged a fair bit of the remaining ice and being the thoughtful partner offered to toss down a rope. That 20' section was fun and had enough ice remaining for me to get secure tool placements. Colin felt it was M4 for you numbers guys. Not much pro possibilities though. We packed away the rope again and headed up to the fork where we (like Mark and Anne) also veered right. The left way looks doable but is not the natural line as it ends in a cul d'sac.

 

The second chock stone must have been moslty buried as we encountered a short ice boulder move or three over a 8' step. The finish to the ridge involved a short (80')section of easy rock(photo). We reached the ridge at 10:30 and lounged in the sun for a while.

 

The ridge scramble to the W summit is a blast. The summit is quite airy (photo)and we soon were at the Silver Star saddle and having lunch. Then off to tag the E (main summit). Back over Burgandy col and down to the dreaded snow shoes. The snow on the descent had turned into complete mush. Isothermal to the ground so that sometimes we were going into our crotches before we got to our snow shoes.

 

Back to the car at 2pm

 

If it cools of again (it rained all Sat night and Sun morn in Mazama) it could still be in good shape. It is a very fun route of generally moderate grade with a short hardish crux.

It makes for a great tour of an interesting side of one of the more complex mountain massifs in the WA pass area. As Mark noted in his TR the gully is deep and narrow which makes for an unusual perspective.

Here is Colin on the crux section.

 

Colin near the top of the couloir

 

Colin on the W summit SS

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/2400me_on_SS-med.jpg

Climbing along N ridge of W summit SS

 

Gear Notes:

short (30-50m) rope

Light rack if running belays needed.

Edited April 27, 2005 by scott_johnston

[Colin]

I think the first chockstone was M2-3, rather than M4. Twas a fun gully.

[jordop]

What a fantastic shot

[pms]

I see you are recommending snowshoes as your prefered method of snow travel. Does this mean you are getting rid of your skis? No more messy waxing....

[scott_johnston]

Jim;

Snowshoes are hateful! Mine surely were possessed by demons. I almost would rather posthole. Shoulder seasons are a bitch. Give me that pesky wax anyday.

Scott

[layton]

I call mine "misery shoes"

[specialed]

I thought you guys were going skiing