Tangled Up In Blue

[gyselinck]

Whoever installed chains above Steel Grill, right on, it was needed.

 

Whoever installed chain anchors above George and Martha, thank you, it was also due for a fix.

 

Whoever installed two bolts above Tangled Up In Blue is a f—king piece of shit who should go back to Seattle (where they belong) and climb on plastic. If you’re two lazy to climb the extra 10 feet to the top for a cool belay in a natural rock chair, or to lazy to walk 25 steps to the right to the areas rappel station, you shouldn’t be climbing at Vantage. Tangled Up in Blue is classic line which should be left alone, topping out is part of the Frenchman Coulee experience. Don’t try to be a hero by fixing climbs to make them more “aesthetic.” They should be left as is by the FA team, especially classic climbs like this one, especially crack climbs. I wonder what Bill would do if he new bolts were added to one of his climbs? In many cases, such as this one, there is no difference in spray painting the climb in red or adding two monstrous fat ugly bolts, its called vandalism . Those bolts should be pulled, they dont belong there.

[soggyendo34]

Thats right bitches. And the plastic in seattle is making me STRONG.....well kinda.

[catbirdseat]

When I first led that climb, I remember I was so pumped that those last ten feet were the hardest part of the climb. I so badly wanted the clean on sight. I wanted to slump onto a cam and yell take. I wouln't let myself. I hauled my sorry ass onto the top with the very last energy I had. It was a great moment for me.

[MCash]

Right on Craig, there is a perfect gear anchor up there. I agree that they should be removed. That is an easy climb (11worth 5.8), there is no need to be toproping it to death.

[k.rose]

I did the work on G&M and SG I wanted to add some anchors on some obscure stuff on Middle East Wall but it was closed for falcon nesting. So here's the question would people object to having anchors on more climbs over there. The ones I'm thinking of are both wide cracks and currently see very little (if any) use, both are quite good aside from the final 15 feet of extreme choss.

[chucK]

If you're talking about snipping off the last 15 feet of climbs by adding premature anchoration, then I would say in general I am opposed to this idea.

 

I'm sure there are climbs where a good case for this can be made. In general though, IMO the default should be anchors at the top, not midway.

 

If someone places anchors midway, there should be a very compelling reason. I haven't seen the anchors on TUIB, but I have climbed that pitch and never had any problems topping out. In fact as I remember, there were two ways to top out. You could stay in the wide crack for good fun, or step right and exit to easy territory. I'm not sure I understand why anchors below that section would be needed.

[MCash]

Let's take each climb as a case. What exactly do you propose K. Rose? Please present the names of the climbs you wish to add anchors too. In general, I am in favor of anchors for routes of Middle East Wall due to the choss on top. I helped beef up the anchor on Crazy Fingers last October. I am opposed to new chain anchors on crack climbs on Sunshine Wall though. The topouts of most of them are great, with good gear to bring up your second. Many of the climbs like TUIB are very popular, and things have been done this way for decades. There is no reason to degrade the route now, by eliminating the last 8 feet of climbing. If you placed those anchors on TUIB, please remove them.

 

Good discussion.

[k.rose]

Mr. Gorbonifar & Left Handed Monkey Wrench is what I was thinking of. I agree that the situation at King Pins is adaquate since the top out is relatively clean (by Frenchmans standards)and there are good gear belays up top. This is not the case over at Mid. East as you know if you've ever topped out there.

[gyselinck]

Tangled Up In Blue was first climbed in 1988 and has since become a classic. It’s an easy 5.8 twin crack which takes good jams, or it can be stemed, or both. It’s a popular beginner’s crack, which helps inspire confidence for harder climbs on Sunshine Wall. Unlike most routes, it maintains its grade throughout the whole climb, which is why many people believe it to be harder then it really is. It takes good gear and there is an awesome belay at top. Whenever I take people who are new to Frenchman Coulee, I always take them up TUIB, it’s an awesome route. See the following link for a picture of the climb. It’s a pretty sweet shot of the first ascentist soloing the route in tennis shoes. (note: that is not him making the FA, it was taken years later.)

 

http://www.nawwal.org/~mrgoff/photojournal/2000/fallwin/10-21brtangled1.html

 

I am also asking that the bolts be removed by whoever put them up. If you do it, the bolts can find a more useful place, perhaps Middle East Wall. If I do it, they will end up in the trash. Please respect the area. If you want to change the characteristics of a climb, perhaps it might be a good idea to post on here to get others insight. What better way is there to trade information? Each climb should be dealt with on a case by case basis. Sunshine Wall, King Pins must be left alone.

 

Edit: I might add, the route has gone 17 years without bolt anchors, why add them now? Thats probably longer then most people on this board have been climbing. Clearly they are not needed.

Edited April 17, 2005 by gyselinck

[Jopa]

Whoever installed two bolts above Tangled Up In Blue is a f—king piece of shit who should go back to Seattle (where they belong) and climb on plastic.

 

[mvs]

I saw those bolts yesterday and ignored them, going left for the great finish. I really like that climb, I don't think it's easy 5.8 though, for me it feels a bit harder than George and Martha actually.

 

Pull the bolts!

[catbirdseat]

I met a couple old timers on TUIB, which I had hoped to climb. I told them I'd done it once before. They said, go climb Air Guitar, 5.10a. I said, "I've never led at that grade before."

 

They said, "Oh, Air Guitar is easier than TUIB. You shouldn't have any trouble with it if you've already done TUIB". They were right.

[gyselinck]

Here is an article, the old timer (terry) you speak of is pictured in the article. It is an older article, but it might explain some of the issues. A good read.

 

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/pacificnw/2002/0623/cover.html