telemarker Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 Post deleted by telemarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 Yep, the Pinnacles are definitely due for an upgrade. We spent the day there today and found that: Slender Thread, Fakin' It and Cajun Queen would make great leads if just a couple more bolts were added to each climb. ST could use two bolts, FI one and CQ one. Vertigo is a cool gear lead there. Try the overhanging chimney variation to Vertigo, it'll give you a workout. The grass re-seeding looks great, and the trails are in fine shape. I think it's time to revive Peshastin Pinnacles as a spring-fall destination area by making some of the climbs more leadable. Mike Barry of WA State Parks is taking suggestions on which climbs to add additional bolts and which to leave alone. Are you talking about REPLACING old, crappy bolts or ADDING ADDITIONAL bolts? Upgrading old, death trap hardware is a good service to the climbing community, adding bolts to established climbs is essentially one of the top 5 things to get you in a load of sh_t climbing ethics wise. FAist approval is really the only blessing that might (big might) make it ok unless DRASTIC REASONS dictate otherwise (flake breaks off making once protect-able move unprotected above death ledge or something like that) If you don't like the runouts, find something else... (Side note: I do seriously frown on 5.12 climbers putting up FAs in the easy range with death runouts just because they can. Contrived danger is lame as well) This post has troll and/or serious flame potential - respond at your own risk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenp Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 I'm all for new routes but I'd hate to see the area looking like three o'clock rock, with a bolted line every ten feet. Replacing some of those manky old 1/4 inch home made bolts is a great idea but adding a bolt to an established route...that takes a lot of consideration. The climbing at the Pinnacles has always been a bit run-out and I feel it should remain that way. I do agree with telemaker about Vertigo, it is a fun gear route on Grand Central in the afternoon when everything else is baking in the sun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 There was discussion amongst some of the local climbing community to present a plan to the park service several months ago. Although it didn't progress to any consensus, one opinion held sway, namely: Don't add bolts except to replace bad placements. If you can't or don't want to lead, then TR. One of our local climbing sages mentioned adding a bolt to access the anchor above Slender Thread, Cajun Queen, etc. Personally, I need to fix the anchor and a bolt or two on Butter Brickle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhamaker Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 >> If you can't or don't want to lead, then TR. << I agree. Adding bolts says "even though others, including the FA folks climb this with the bolts and pro available, I don't like it, and I will destroy the experience for all better, bolder and future climbers for all time." Surley there are other climbs in your comfort zone. Probably w/ in 100 ft of the climb in question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 If you like death routes, Peshastin is the place for you. There are only a handful of leads there that are safe. That's a shame, but it does explain why it is a newbie toprope mecca. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 NOT A CHESTBEAT!!! I on-sighted all three of those climbs about ten years ago or so. I probably could not/would not want to do them now, given my family situation and the shape I'm (not) in. However, were I ever to climb them again, I would want to climb them in the form that I first experienced them. => Leave them alone, except to replace old hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 If you like death routes, Peshastin is the place for you. There are only a handful of leads there that are safe. is your definition of "safe" a bolt every three feet? there's a ton of easy, well protected routes there. seems like even when the pro is good though (lightning crack) people can bumble their way into injury if they try hard enough...extra bolts will not curb that tendency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 replacing old hardware ... fine adding additional hardware ... not fine if you need a bolt ladder go do Hydrotube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 is your definition of "safe" a bolt every three feet? there's a ton of easy, well protected routes there. seems like even when the pro is good though (lightning crack) people can bumble their way into injury if they try hard enough...extra bolts will not curb that tendency. A bolt every 15-20 feet would be good. There are routes there with bad natural pro and one or two manky 1/4" bolts for protection. There are routes there with little to no pro that might have been climbed on lead (essentially a free solo) once, ever, and yet appear in guide books. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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