Rope for Glacier Travel

[Marmot74]

What do people think is the minimum thickness of rope they would use exclusively for glacier travel?

[Alex]

7.5 mm

[Squid]

A 7.5 would work, but I'd opt for something a little thicker- maybe an 8.5.

Not becuase of any concerns about the strength of the cord, but just the difficulties associated with trying to prusik with such a thin rope.

 

Alex- what's your prusik set-up with a 7.5? Do you use really thin accessory cord?

[stinkyclimber]

For ski touring in the Coast Range, I have 35m of 7mm accessory cord. 5mm prussiks seem to work fine, esp using a Klimhiest (sp?) knot (I have 3 sets for partners without thin enough prussiks of their own). The strength ratings are all within reason. I wouldn't take this setup to Alaska/Yukon, or perhaps even Rainier, but for ski touring in the Coast Range, it is awesome - it fits into a stuff sack a little bigger than a 1L nalgene.

[kweb]

I use an 8mm with 5.5mm prussiks.

[RichTurley]

I go 7.8 with 5mm prussiks.

[Dr_Crash]

I have an 8.4 mm because I wanted a double to (guess what) double up sometimes but have used down to 7.5 mm. Small diameter perlon is your friend.

 

drC

[Bill_Simpkins]

I go 8.3 mm 30 m because I like being able to pretty much use anything I got on me prussiks if I have to. Cord, webbing etc ... Plus it's not too bad rapping with it with a pack on. Munter hitch on a doubled rope suffices.

Plus it's nice to have a rope you are comfortable belaying with.

30m has been long enough most of the time, but I've had to downclimb on a few rappels.

I'm all about dynamic ropes too.