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Stemalot

Trango MaxCam

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mgear.com are advertising them in their latest catalog, so they must be out pretty soon.

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the latest climbing mag reviews cams (minus this omega pacific) and endorses the Max cam and Camalots.

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I played with a prototype about a year ago of both the maxcam and the omega pacific link cam. I think the maxcam has some promise, The prototype was a bit flimsy, but I saw ways that they could beef it up and make it pretty solid. I think the smaller ones will be solid, but I am still a bit hesitant on the larger sizes without acutally holding one.

 

The link cam is going to go the way of the splitter cams, a cool engineering project that doesn't sell very well. There is just too much going on for it to be reliable and last for 10-20 years like my camalots have...

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I think the splitters failed because of quality. The wire used in the stem was very stiff, not really flexible at all. The trigger construction and action were terrible.

 

The new Trango flex cams are using the splitter gear 4cu design - 2 sets of cam lobes in direct opposition. They look and feel pretty damn good, but I haven't placed one yet. My main concern are the eensy-weensy springs that are a bit exposed to abuse in the smaller sizes.

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This is an Omega Link Cam. The maxcam from Trango has got better from the original design. Like rr666 said the cable was too soft. They fixed that issue as well as the lobes not pulling evenly by repositioning the angle that the cables pull on the lobes. It has more range than their flex cams but not really much more than what you get from a Camalot. Trango reccomends "NOT" pushing the cam into a crack. I assume this is due to it's off set axle design. The cam tends to walk easily and works best in it's smaller range. What you see as range when you pull the trigger isn't "working" range. The Omega Link cam is a cool new design. I like the performance of those units. They fill a niche on the small side of things. The Metolius Supercam is a great design for extended range. One unit is truly the same as having two Fatcams on your rack. The Supercam is also lighter than the Fatcams which they have made for some time now. I would look into the Omega Linkcams for finger, ringlocks, tight hands sizes. I would look at the Metolius Supercam for tighthands, hands, cupped, to fist sizes. The small size is the only size available from Metolius at this time. The small is the same as a #6 and #7 in one unit! #6 (green), #7 (light blue) for those who don't pay attention to the numbers stamped into these gizmos.

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