Mt index alpine

[tom_harbell]

can somebody give me the specifics of the rack needed for eve dearborne and north face and other pertinent info

[slothrop]

Cold temps, ice tools, and one pair of large balls, that's what I hear.

[greenfork]

if you need to ask...

[Cpt.Caveman]

Plenty of people were climbing on NF of Index last winter. I'm sure you might get a response on that. I plan on giving it a go this winter when I think the time is right.

[mattp]

quote:

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Originally posted by tom harbell:

can somebody give me the specifics of the rack needed for eve dearborne and north face and other pertinent info

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That is a subjective question, Tom, and the answer depends on who is going to undertake the climb and what the conditions will be like -- so be careful relying on any one answer.

 

I haven't climbed Mount Index in the winter, but I can offer the following: the rock is compact with relatively few wide cracks, so rock gear should be weighted toward the smaller sizes and pins will come in handy. I would expect some thin ice even if conditions appear pretty "fat" when you scope it out from the highway, so I'd take both long and short ice screws. Long slings come in handy for tying off bushes and I like to carry rippers to ease the load on key ice screws or suspect placements. I generally don't find them very reassuring, but I usually carry a picket or two as well.

[Cpt.Caveman]

That said I plan on taking lots of 22 cm screws and 2 number 4 camalots.

[j_b]

the north face has only one ~80' continuous ice pitch and it is often not very fat. Matt's guesses are right on the money. Without pickets be prepared to move together on the snow patches (~40deg?).