Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
DPS

Rack for Upper West Rib, Denali

Recommended Posts

Can anyone recommend a gear rack for the Upper West Rib of Denali? Is rock gear necessary? How many screws? Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We didn't need or use any rock gear. For the orient express you might want to take an ice screw or two and pickets, but we didn't use any.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're headed up the Orient Express to the 17 camp then all you'll need is snow / ice gear. I suggest 2 pickets and 2 screws per person. If you opt to go through the rock bands climbers R of the OE - then I suggest a selection of small to medium pins along with the pickets / screws. (Going up through the rock bands is great fun!)

 

If you opt to not use any pro going up or down the OE then get rid of your rope -- too many people have died or had serious injuries in that very spot. I also highly suggest you use a running belay of pickets or screws going both up and down the OE; in '98 my partner and felt like the slope was easy and we ran it out without pro. We fell and he passed away as a result. 24 hours after our accident we watched two others do exactly what we did. They both lived but suffered serious injuries.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I second the suggestion to get rid of your rope if traveling together on the upper orient - either that or take a lot of pickets for running belays. Going up is one thing, but coming back down the OE to the rock ridge is exposed, and you will be tired. There is all kinds of fixed garbage in the couloir just above the most popular camps on the upper rib (the couloir terminates at the balcony and becomes very easy 3rd and 4th). The couloir can be climed relatively easily with one axe. In some years, it is full of snow and requires only kicking steps. It was bony and blue when we were there in 2002. A couple screws, a couple long slings for slinging horns, etc. can be helpfull. You could place cames if you bothered to take them, but I would leave them and make some mid to large nuts work. Maybe a pin or two. Depends on your comfort level I suppose.

 

Some groups elect to avoid the upper rib descent by either a)carrying over and descending the buttress (heavy)

b)going lite and descending the west buttress all the way down to 14k, where you would have to sleep in an extra tent, or bum tent space from someone you know. Then you would have to hike up to 16k and get your schwag back.

DT

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×