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swaterfall

Ham and Eggs Qs

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Any one ever done it?

 

A friend of mine is all fired up to do Ham and Eggs on the Mooses tooth this year. The catch is that he is working until June 1.

 

I don't know much about that climb and I'm wondering if any one has and idea of what the conditions might be like in June.

 

I'm in CO so I don't even know how the winter has been up there so any of that kind of info (or links to) would be appriciated.

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It has been a pretty heavy snow year up there this year, even so I'd say the route is generally out by June 1. The first ascent was done in July, but a lot of the climbing was done in waterfalls. The couloir is certainly safer earlier in the season (April may be best) as it is essentially a garbage chute for the surrounding cliffs, so the colder the conditions the better. Email me for route specific info. joe at cascadeimages dot com.

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That late, you might need to be comfortable at 5.9R, at the crux.

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I tried the MT in late May once. The entire mountain was creaking, popping and moving. The slope we started up whoomped on us and we hightailed it home. Many FAs back in the 60s/70s were done later (July and even August) but in general, the AK Range is getting warmer and you want to go earlier.

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We got to the Ruth in early June two years ago, coming from the Kahiltna, and the ice routes were pretty much gone in the Ruth. They had been climbable through May but it just got too warm, and shit was coming down!!.

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i've done the approach from the ruth glacier 5 times and it was in terrible avy shape each time (ie, actively avalanching).

 

i guess you can be flown right to the base of it, but that would seriously limit your options cuz there's lots of other stuff to do.

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