Alpinfox Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Drove down to Smith with Mr.E on Wednesday night. This was to give us four days of mud-pullin, but it started raining on Saturday afternoon, so we came home. I feel sorry for the folks who drove down Friday night or Saturday morning. One of the highlights of the trip was a two pitch mid-5.10 bolted route called "Bay of Pigs" on the Red Wall just to the right of "Dances with Clams". I highly recommend it. It features zenolith tuggin' and edge crimpin' on a very steep wall. The second pitch features a section that is very steep (>90degrees), and looks really intimidating, but is actually pretty easy (5.9ish). We also climbed "The John Galt Line" (10+/11-) which is my favorite of E's routes at Smith. It features a lunging move to a big pocket. Good sporty fun. It starts in a little alcove behind some blocks to the right of the "Jete" + "Easy Reader" area. On Saturday we started to climb "Free Lunch", a 5-pitch free route that ascends Picnic Lunch Wall. The first two pitches involve some terrifying traversing on some of the worst rock I have ever climbed on (5.10-). Supposedly it gets a lot better after that and has a **** 5.8 handcrack up high, but we bailed due to approaching rain clouds after the first pitch. We were right above "Five Easy Pieces", so we TRed that a couple of times. It's not easy, but it's FUN! I've heard that it is a good route for those trying to break into the 5.12 range. While none of the moves are all that difficult (I don't think there is a "5.12" move on it), the pump is fierce! I need to get into much better shape if I'm to get that one. After flailing on 5EP a while, it was raining so we drove home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 drove to smiff to climb in the rain when you could have been at squamish in the t-shirt weather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 I can't find the "post a TR" link in the various forums. Anyone else see the link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Just type [TR] into the title of your post, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted February 21, 2005 Author Share Posted February 21, 2005 drove to smiff to climb in the rain when you could have been at squamish in the t-shirt weather We got 2.5 days of good tuff pullin' you smartass Kanuck! Viva Americana! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Just type [TR] into the title of your post, etc. yeah, but what happened to that little template that used to be there to make it easy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Tim h@xx0r3d it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Sorry to not post a reply here, but I posted a reply to this post over on ascentionist.com at 10 am this morning already. http://www.ascensionist.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=6400&an=0&page=0#6400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 Yeah, I saw that Bill. Thanks. Mr.E had climbed Free Lunch previously, and knew about the face climbing alternative to the left of the grovelly chimney, so that is the way we were planning to go. I was looking forward to the handcrack part; too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 " A fine climb for anyone not offended by loose rock." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 My favorite picture of the trip is attached. I didn't take many. I know you got some good ones E; post em up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 CC and I were among the poor fools who drove down Saturday. We got all of two pitches in before it started raining. It snowed at the Grasslands that night, too. In the morning we drove to Bachelor. So much for warm tuff in the sun! Glad you boys got some, Foxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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