70m Ropes

[Mark_Husbands]

This has been discussed before, but I am curious what folks think are the merits of 70m ropes. I have a deal possibility on Beal Iceline 8.1 x 70m. I've always used 60m ropes and been fine with that length, but the deal doesn't apply to the shorter length.

 

Opinions on length, brand, or other exciting rope properties.

[Bogen]

I like a 70 meter lead, but the extra weight of 2 70's is a pain. How good is the deal, you could always chop 'em.

[layton]

big tip: bring 70m worth of gear

[Ryan]

I've got a 70m Iceline and it kicks ass. Weight isn't much of an issue, you can pack it fairly small, and it has been extremely good in the durability realm.

 

I picked mine up for about 120, which was a pretty good deal on that particular line. I'd say go for it.

[k.rose]

You can lead Entrance Exam in one pitch with one, what an adventure.

[pms]

Mark,You could make the 70m into 30m and 40m ropes. Two nice lengths for some alpine routes.

[Mark_Husbands]

Well, I'm really looking for a pair for ice climbing and for alpine rock routes that require long raps. so cutting is not part of the concept. i think the price will end up being around 250 for the pair, which is pretty good in my estimation.

 

i actually have several chunks of 8 and 9 that range from 80 to 120 ft, fine for glacier travel and whatnot.

 

but these would be primo brand new multi pitch ropes.

my concern is that there comes a point where the ropes weigh too much, the gear needed to run the ropes out weigh (and cost) too much, and the rope snarls get bigger, longer, meaner.

[Alex]

I've used a single 9.4 70m for alpine rock and ice on a few trips, and to be honest while the extra length is nice on rare occaisions, its pretty durn heavy and bulky in general, and it results in alot of rope drag on alpine rock. I climbed N Ridge of Stuart with this rope and simulclimbing with it truly sucks. Even doubled. There is one scenario where the 70m rope excels: long alpine ice faces, such as N F Athabasca, Fay, Andromeda, Robson. On these climbs the reduced number of pitches you climb might well be worth the 70! Consider N F Fay is only 3 70m pitches (as opposed to 4 55m pitches) and N F Athabasca for us was 9 rope-stretching 70m pitches, however if that had been 60s or 55s, we would have had to climb 10 or 11 pitches. With the extra changovers at belays n so forth, it just adds to your time on the face and slows you down. But unless you are doing alot of that specific climbing, I think 70m ropes are not worth it.

 

I am climbing multi-pitch ice on twin ice floss, 60m 7.5mm ropes, and mixed cragging on a single 60m. I think the 60m ropes get you up about 98% of all the routes in North America without issues, and weigh a bit less: my advice is stick with 60's.

 

I think if you are trying to maximize ice and alpine rock with one set of ropes, the double 7.5 - 8.5 60s is the way to go. Pair this with a Reverso, Reversino, or Gi Gi and its a great system for parties of 2 or 3 year round.

[Blake]

check out the webpage for the canadian store "mountain magic" you can get two mammut phoenix ropes for about $240, they are better than the beal ice-floss and weigh equivalent amounts.

[Mark_Husbands]

Thanks for the comments. it's a done deal, the 70s have been ordered. I am worried that they won't be good as all purpose doubles, but I'll get to formulate an opinion first hand it appears.

M

[Alex]

The good thing about your purchase is, if you hate the system after 6 months or a year, just chop 10m off!

[rock-ice]

check out the webpage for the canadian store "mountain magic" you can get two mammut phoenix ropes for about $240, they are better than the beal ice-floss and weigh equivalent amounts.

 

Why do you like the Mammut's better? I don't have any reason to think otehrwise just wondering what the advantage is in your eyes.