gapertimmy Posted October 20, 2002 Author Share Posted October 20, 2002 so the autoblock really isn't a prussik knot persay, but you just loop it around the rope a few times and clip back into the locker? guess i'm just being an idiot but haven't seen this done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted October 20, 2002 Author Share Posted October 20, 2002 look at this great little article: http://www.wvclimbing.com/tradtips/autoblock.html  nevermind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 20, 2002 Share Posted October 20, 2002 ummm ya I can read still it took you guys so long to answer my question I looked it up  [ 10-20-2002, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: Muffy The Wanker Sprayer ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted October 21, 2002 Author Share Posted October 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer: ummm ya I can read still it took you guys so long to answer my question I looked it up what was your question? confused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 nope I deleted my question after I answerd it for my self bylooking in the knots for climbers book Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick_Sharpless Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 I like the autoblock above the rap device, but short enough that you can reach it even if it becomes weighted (under the guide hand). Putting it below the device seems to be asking for it with the potential for interference with the device itself - as well as potential isues with passing knots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 i 97% of the time back up my rap and when i do not i ask myself why?? Â i prefer to put the prussik under the belay device in most cases...everyone's it will get stuck in the device issue can be mitigated by keeping your brake hand on the prussik...you actually have to as the rope does not feed well without the prussik being held...so you are managaing it....once weihgted the the prussik underneath the device is easily freed, mush easier then if the prussik was above.... Â on passing knots...you know when you are going to do it....so in that case i will use the prussik above the belay device.... Â no one way is correct and if done correctly no one way is wrong...i think it is very important to be able to do both flawlessy..... Â so who ever thinks one way is better then the other should do both in different situations.... Â the best way to overcome problems in the mountains is being flexiable and having a broad information base.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 Using an autoblock, also called a third hand, is a preferred method in the guiding community. I don't quite understand the significance of all the references to passing the knot as most recreational climbers descend via one or two ropes, not multiple ropes tied together. The advantage of the autoblock is that the climbers bodyweight is never on the hitch, it merely serves to hold the rope in the braking position below the device. Therefore it is quite easy to loosen the hitch after it "locks". A friction hitch (whatever you want to call it) above the device, if loaded, will be holding close to all of the climbers weight. This can create an annoying situation if the terrain is steep or overhanging. Certain types of cord, especially small diameter, are a bit difficult to manage on rappell as they will will want to catch, bite, get loaded on the main line. Dealing with this is a pain in the ass, as if rappelling isn't dangerous enough. The climbers weight will have to be put on the rap line via another friction hitch, above the loaded prusik, then the initial prusik unweighted. Other ways as well which are great fun to pracice while trying to get off something quickly! Kidding. Autoblocks are nice whenever a person would like to make rappelling safer, or things are not so good for whatever reason. Worth mentioning the autoblock generally slows low angle rappelling to a crawl and can be annoying. Use the firemans for the second and subsequent climbers to descend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dave: Worth mentioning the autoblock generally slows low angle rappelling to a crawl and can be annoying. It's also annoying when rappeling a full rope length as the extra weight of the rope makes for a tedious rappel w/ that much friction. I tend to avoid using an autoblock (or anything) here. As for the knot-passing, there must be a lot of cavers on this site running the big drops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick_Sharpless Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: no one way is correct and if done correctly no one way is wrong...i think it is very important to be able to do both flawlessy..... Â so who ever thinks one way is better then the other should do both in different situations.... Â the best way to overcome problems in the mountains is being flexiable and having a broad information base.... Best thoughts yet. I'll be working on the "other way" to add to my bag or tricks. Can't have too many. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 21, 2002 Share Posted October 21, 2002 Erik showed me the autoblock this weekend, and it seemed both easy to use and effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted October 22, 2002 Author Share Posted October 22, 2002 thanks again for the great responses. i'm hoping to gather some useful info like this and form a tips/tricks section on the site, any other ideas for useful content there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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