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Slesse / Stuart Beta Request


tomrogers

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Hello, I am thinking of heading out to Slesse or the West side start for the complete North Ridge of Stuart tonight.

 

Slesse: Is the pocket glacier of Slesses still there? If so, can one get to the toe without an axe and by using running shoes? Is there snow melt still at the bivy?

 

Stuart: can one get to the toe without an axe and by using running shoes? Is there snow melt still at the bivy? How hard (rating) is the west side start variation?

 

PS, Dave Burdick, if you can find a partner you are welcome to go.

 

Thanks a lot.

tom

thomas.a.rogers@boeing.com

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quote:

Originally posted by tomrogers:

 

Slesse: Is the pocket glacier of Slesses still there? If so, can one get to the toe without an axe and by using running shoes? Is there snow melt still at the bivy?


Yes (as far as I know, it was 2 weeks ago); maybe (take aluminum crampons to be on the safe side); probably not right now.

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with regards to stuart:

 

we were up there over labor day and tried the full north ridge of stuart. we were able to traverse below the glacier without an ice axe or crampons. see the write up in the alpine lakes section. i was happy to have them when we bailed though.

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I was there about 4 weeks ago and I was glad to have a axe. We used running shoes though. The glacier was icy and I can't imagine it would be any better now. A slip on that stuff would slide you into oblivion. Plus there are areas broken up so that you must climb up and over ice blocks.

 

The snow patch at the bivy site was small an very likely to be gone by now.

 

Don't try the crossover peak descent. Maybe in a couple of years when there is a small trail started. Easier to park a car in slesse creak

 

Enjoy.

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