fgw Posted November 2, 2004 Share Posted November 2, 2004 Anyone done it as an aid climb (Dod Route/North Face)? Any beta on gear needed (how many pins, belay bolts any good etc...) The underground Menagerie guide is nice for free climbing it but doesn't give much on gear. Dodge info. might be out of date. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted November 2, 2004 Share Posted November 2, 2004 The guidebook author posts on this page as retired (hi Jim!) and is probably one of the most positive, enthusiastic climbers I have ever met. PM him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted November 3, 2004 Share Posted November 3, 2004 Thought I would answer the pm here incase there are some other prospective monster climbers out there, and thanks for the kind words John. I have climbed the Turkey free and with aid and believe me it's easier as a free climb. I'm talking the regular north face route. Pitch 1 is mostly bolts (of various age and soundness) and goes around 10a, pitch 2 is the crux on aid because of the horrible rock thru the overhang, it goes free around 10c. The 3rd pitch is the free climbing crux 11a but on aid is a bolt ladder up to an easy slab to the summit. Be carefull and test pull your ropes if rapping the route, numerous stuck ropes have occured here. For a rack you will need no pins but a pretty good selection up to 3.5 inch ( when I aided it we had a few early friends but used a lot of big hexes, the crux was body weighting on the bad rock of the second pitch). A good idea might be a bolt kit and extra webbing for replacing ancient bolts and for rap anchors that are seldom used. This weekend looks great but it wont be long till the upper road is snowed in. good luck and post back how it went. wish I could be up there this weekend but have family obligaions Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted November 3, 2004 Author Share Posted November 3, 2004 Thank you very much - appreciate the detailed information. (also thanks to NOLSe for mentioning the right source). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted November 3, 2004 Share Posted November 3, 2004 According to Nick Dodge , there is a "Giant Rotten Bong Crack", How many giant rotten bongs should I bring? Or how many hits ? Really though, it is a fun climb just make sure you have thin-eared carabiners for the tiny homemade hangers on the 11a/b crux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 How many giant rotten bongs should I bring? Â hahahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted November 4, 2004 Share Posted November 4, 2004 Leave the bong at home for the post climb slide show Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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