Mount Logan (WA, not Canada)

[JoshK]

Anybody done Logan? I was thinking it would make an interesting destination as I'm looking for something remote to Solo. The Banded glacier route looks fairly gentle. Anybody?

 

-josh

[payaso]

Did it in July, beautiful area with no one around. Nice views of Goode, B Basin, etc. Solo could be tricky on the banded towards the top of the Glacier as it was starting to open up back then, but who knows? Fremont would probably be more likely to lead to success.

[Mr._Natural]

I barely remember doind the fremont from rainy pass several years ago. way ong hike, but rather scenic and on good trails most of the way. it would be fun to solo, we encountered a short moat crux that required some steep stemming between snow and choss, rapped it on the way down.

[JoshK]

Thanks for the info guys. It's looking like the fremont would indeed be a better option. My totally random and non-solid plan at this point is to start at the cascade pass trailhead with a friend very early saturday and climb bucker. He'd head back to cascade pass (has plans on sunday) and I'd continue as far down the trail towards park creek pass as I could. I'd then climb logan sunday and head out towards rainy pass on the thunder creek trail to a waiting car. Seems like a really long weekend, but doable...

[JoshK]

Also, has anybody tried heading down bucker on it's NE ridge (or anywhere on that east side) and cross countrying to park creek pass or thunder creek? It looks like it might be too steep to do realistically but it sure could save a ton of time.

[wayne]

Are you doing the N Face on Buckner? Lets see how you feel after doing that!

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by JoshK:

Thanks for the info guys. It's looking like the fremont would indeed be a better option. My totally random and non-solid plan at this point is to start at the cascade pass trailhead with a friend very early saturday and climb bucker. He'd head back to cascade pass (has plans on sunday) and I'd continue as far down the trail towards park creek pass as I could. I'd then climb logan sunday and head out towards rainy pass on the thunder creek trail to a waiting car. Seems like a really long weekend, but doable...

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josh my friends just did this hike without the climbing....said it was great but a alot of hiking.....

[JoshK]

Nope, not the NF of bucker, just the "regular" (SW?) route. It's definitely a ton of hiking. For some odd reason, however, I feel like doing a ton of hiking...

[Dale]

Josh: I agree that the Fremont glacier would be much the better choice, and much easier to get to, than the Banded. I would expect major crevasses, some steeper ice, on the Banded right now, but the Fremont is flat and mellow and the biggest potential problem would be if the snow finger up the rock has a large moat. The Fremont route is very pleasant from Park Creek Pass.

 

As for Buckner: The NE Ridge looks like a long and serious rock climb. Someone who tried it, and backed off, said it felt long and serious. Looks like the south face for you, so sharpen up those crampons! If you have trouble finding the route through the brushy cliffs between upper

and lower Horseshoe Basins, you could head over to Booker and descend from there to the trail. Good luck! DaleF

[JasonG]

It was a heinous brush bash going DOWN into horseshoe basin from Buckner, I can't imagine coming up. Lots of cliffs and slide alder so big it'd qualify as old growth. As far as the east ridge goes, I second Dale's opinion. I climbed it in '99 and it is a long and chossy adventure. Not steep enough to rap easily, but too loose to downclimb safely solo. Good luck, you're in for one hell of a weekend. . . The plus side is the Fremont route on Logan is really nice-great views and pretty easy.

[Nelly]

Consider heading into upper Park Creek Pass from the Buckner/Booker Col. I have NOT done the route but it looks reasonable - some glacier travel is necessary down the Buckner Glacier a short distance.

[JoshK]

Hey guys, thanks for all the info. I wised up and came up with a revised plan. :-)

 

My dad's birthday is in 2 weekends and as a present I'm taking him up Logan to (hopefully) summit on his birthday. I got us reservations going in to stehikin on the early fairy ,going up park creek pass, climbing, then going out thunder creek for a nice one way tour.

 

I'll save bucker for another time and do an interesting route on it rather than a brush/scree/choss slog.