james_e Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 well, i'm takin my first trip to red rocks. i'm also going with another red rocks virgin, who also happens to be a trad virgin. where should we go to find easy-moderate sport routes (up to 5.11's)? a little gear placement is ok, but mostly sport please. all suggestions help. thanks. -james Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 My favorite sport route I have ever done anywhere is "Running Man". It's 5.11, 40m (bring two ropes). Pretty sustained. It is located on the right side of the "running man wall" between the second pullout and the sandstone quarry. Best to approach from the Sandstone Quarry lot. Gallery also has good sport routes. "A Day in the Life" is another great 5.11. I haven't done it yet, but I want to climb "Prince of Darkness" next time I go down there. 6 pitch 10c sport route. I don't know if you are primarily a sporto, but if you climb trad too, you should definitely do some of the multipitch routes on the other side of the canyon. "Crimson Crysallis" or "Ginger Cracks" for example. Quote
Drederek Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Calico Basin has a pretty good variety of sport routes 5.7 to 5.12 Its a good place to go if you don't have all day and don't want to pay. Short approaches and out of the park. The gallery, black corridor and wall of confussion can keep you busy for several days with lots of short routes mostly tennish. If you do go into Black Velvet canyon to do Prince of Darkness I'd bring a set of small tcu's or nuts . Unimpeachable groping is an 8 pitch sportclimb on Ginger buttress with the first 7 pitches all 5.10. A swain guide will probably be more helpful to you than the urioste guide for sport. Have a Ball! Quote
Geek_the_Greek Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 Yeah, PoD is great fun, and indeed, a set of small-medium nuts will do just fine to complement the bolts in a couple of places. Bring lots of draws (16? I can't remember). It's a nice sustained face, well-endowed with edges and knobs, although your toes will be more sore than your fingers by the end. Every anchor has chains, I think, although you probably need 2 ropes to rap off. Quote
RuMR Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 psssssha over rated...that would be a nice stiff index 10d/11a...hahahaha Quote
james_e Posted September 29, 2004 Author Posted September 29, 2004 well what are the best sport crags in calico basin? thanks for all your input. Quote
lancegranite Posted September 29, 2004 Posted September 29, 2004 Sunny and steep Cannibal crag Alternative crag Cannibis crag Family crag Quote
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