altitude sickness

[dlofgren]

I’ve been climbing for twelve years, summited Rainier several times, and up until last year never had a problem with altitude.

 

However, last summer (’03) took a couple newbies up the DC; bonked at the Cleaver, but toughed it out to the summit for the sake of the new ones. Agonizingly slow; couldn’t eat or drink; absolutely no energy.

 

Last April I did the Ledges with Pandora's dad (good guy, good climber), but bonked on the exit chute. Ugly. Made it up the chute, but had to abort the climb and loop down the Direct back to Muir w/o summiting. Very disappointing.

 

Two weeks later went back up to the Beehive to try to get the bod used to altitude. The legs and lungs were strong but I still couldn’t eat or drink above 11,000’.

 

Questions: have any of you experienced altitude sickness for ____ months/years, and then had it go away? Or is it like a dreaded disease – once you get it, you always have it? In other words, can I hope for a change in ’05? Or am I doomed to being a low-lifer?

[cj001f]

I have problems with it when I'm not in good cardio shape (it seems in particular when I don't run often). I also have problems when I'm low on sleep (doesn't take missing much sleep to do me in either). Dehydration doesn't help either. In the past when I've followed the above guidelines (i.e. good cardio shape, rested, hydrated) I don't have problems. When I miss them I end up with bad AMS.

[ChrisT]

Have you seen a doctor lately? Perhaps it's a symptom of something else.

[griz]

Everybody responds abit different to altitude , for sure but the best advice I can give is to really focus on your breathing when you feel symptoms coming on and even when you feel ok. Make sure you do the whole pressure breathing thing effectively. I've found it to be the key to getting rid of AMS type stuff. I've been able to beat bouts of tunnel vision, nausea , faintness with good pressure breathing and return to a more normal state w/o fail within 10-15 minutes. And I agree w/ CJ001f on the importance of hydration and being in shape. Find a drink that works well and sits well at altitude too. The fancy protein drinks make me sick and weak at altitude but I can guzzle good 'ol gatorade and it sits well. Other people I climb with swear by the fancy protein stuff so just find what works, ya know? Find and eat foods that settle your stomach too. Crackers worked magic for me on a nice tall peak once.

 

Try some experimenting. Maybe you changed your routine abit and don't realize it.

Edited September 26, 2004 by griz

[Bug]

I have heard that Ginka Biloba helps with it also. Again, it depends on the body.

[Harry_Pi]

Hello capitalist!

It sound like you suffer from geriatric disease.

Thank you for allow commie to post.

[Chad_A]

Hi, Dan, hadn't seen this post. While on Sunset, during the second day, I felt like crap. I ate a ton, drank as much as I could get in, and I was a million bucks the next day. I felt better on the summit plateau then at 10,000.

 

Some people swear by an extra day of acclimization. Weather windows don't always allow that, but if you have the extra time, that's the thing that I think most helps (in addition to what the others have suggested above.) Sleep and hydration

[Thinker]

I've heard that some here are experimenting with a class of drugs with some 'added benefits'.

Thread 1

 

from the BBC article:

"The authors say it is the first drug to be shown to increase the capacity to exercise at sea level, and when oxygen supply is affected at high altitude."

"Dr Friedrich Grimminger, who led the study, told the BBC the findings could help pulmonary hypertension patients: "They aren't able to do the smallest activity without complaining.

 

"With the drug, more blood was going through the lung vessels, the gas exchange [the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide between the air and the blood in the lungs] improved and the heart's pumping capacity could be raised."

 

A patient with the condition who was given sildenafil said: "It was good to be able to breathe freely again and no longer feel that oppressive feeling on my chest.""

 

Thread 2

[JoshK]

i must say that being adjusted does make a big diff. i went up longs peak a few weeks back. i am now living in boulder at 5300ft. its not that high but i could have run up the thing

[dlofgren]

Thanks to all for your input. (Except for commie pi - he's too close to the truth for comfort!). I appreciate the wide variety of opinions and recommendations.

 

I guess I'm still frustrated - I make every effort to be in shape, rested, hydrated, etc. I haven't changed my routine from previous trips that were successful.

 

I wish I had heard from someone who said, "Hey Dan, I experienced that, and it went away on its own after such and so length of time. Hang in there." Too much to hope for.

 

My wife's a nurse, so I'll ask her about the drugs and look them up in her PDR.

 

Again, thanks to all. Happy, safe climbing to you.

[Harry_Pi]

Hello capitalist!

Desire, desire, who wants to climb Rainier again after several times? It's the same thing as being married for a few years.

Thank you for allow commie to post.