(TR) Circo De Gredos - Spain

[TimL]

Circo De Gredos 8/31/04 – 9/02/04

 

Tuesday 8/31/04

 

No friggin way…..this can’t be happening. I’ve seen plenty of crazy approaches and funky stuff in the North Cascades of Washington in the United States, but the waiting for a herd of cows to cross the highway on the way to the Circo De Gredos in Central Spain was far more baffling than any of the approach cruxes I’ve experienced in North America.

(The approach crux.)

 

The chica and I decided to take a holiday from our holidays with her family in Spain. First on the list was an attempt at Naranjo Del Bulnes located in the Picos De Europa in Northern Spain. This idea fell right through the floor after the padre announced in the typical Spanish soft and non-direct manner that we were crazy, and there was no way we were going to take his car to the Picos de Europa. This left us scrambling for ideas. At the last minute we were able to find a book of the 100 best rock routes in Central Spain at the Desnivel book store in Madrid and decided to make the three hour drive from Madrid to the Circo De Gredos.

 

Since we were staying at the alpine hut, we were able to carry light packs with just our cloths, climbing gear and lunch. I think I can really get into the European hut system. Breakfast and dinner supplied and clean beds. Not bad for an alpine rock holiday.

 

(Elena on the approach.)

 

(Cicro De Gredos)

 

The three hour approach to the hut was easy on a very nice trail. We made a quick stop for lunch before dropping down into the circo and munched on some delicious bread and cheese that we picked up in one of the many small towns between Madrid and the Circo De Gredos.

 

After dropping our stuff off at the hut we walked a short distance and knocked off a miserable three pitch route on the Refuge Wall. Thank God we were the only ones staying at the hut because we came back late and almost missed dinner, which would of caused me to loose my girlfriend, climbing partner and translator.

(The Refuge Wall)

 

Wednesday 9/1/04

 

The morning rolled around and breakfast was served at eight. Our goal for the day was to climb the Tres Hermanitos. The Tres Hermanitos (Three Brothers) are a cluster of spectacular granite spires locates high up in the circo.

 

(Tres Hermanitos)

 

The approach up the talus to the base of the spires took about an hour and a half. Once at the base, we racked up and started up the obvious gulley pitch to the Third Hermanito.

 

(Elena on pitch 1 of the Third Hermanito in the shadows of the Second and Third Hermanitoes)

 

The route of the Third Hermanito was easy Via Normal Route III+ D.

 

(Elena starting the last pitch to the summit of the Third Hermanito)

 

We quickly rapped down and traversed over to the Second Hermanito. The Second Hermanito was by far the better of the two climbs. The first pitch off the big ledge below the Third Hermanito started off with interesting face climbing to a huge ledge. The final pitch was very exciting and exposed moves through an overhanging prow on huge jugs with a final 15 foot au cheval.

 

(Second Hermanito)

 

(Elena on the final au cheval pitch of the Second Hermanito)

 

The route up the Second Hermanito was a little more difficult than the first, but not hard by any means. We climbed the Second Hermanito via Normal AD IV+. From the top of the Second Hermanito, we quickly did one double rope rappel to the base then scrambled over for about forty-five meters to the base of the Third Hermanito. From the base of the Third Hermanito I set up a rappel through a chockstone and then we did a double rope rappel to our packs.

 

We attempted the First Hermanito but after climbing one pitch and having troubles with finding the route, thickening dark clouds and the threat of returning to the hut late with no dinner forced certain retreat.

 

At this point I must say how awesome it is to return to the hut after a long day in the mountains to good bread, hot food, wine and a warm bed.

 

Thursday 9/2/04

 

Thursday, our final day in the Circo De Gredos, dawned with high wind, frigid cold and cloudy skies. Elena, being deprived from not having a siesta for the past two days, had problems waking up so we got a later than desired start. The goal for a short day in the hills before driving back to Madrid consisted of a group of rock needles called Agujas Rojas, or the Red Needles.

 

The hike up to the needles from the hut took around an hour. The weather was threatening with dark clouds rolling in and pulling out but rained never materialized so we decided to continue to the base of the routes.

 

(The Agujas Rojas.)

 

Since the weather was still threatening, but not bad enough to not climb, we decided to start with an easier rout on Punta Cigan which is the prominent needle on the left. I have to say Elena was a real trooper. This was her second time climbing alpine rock and the conditions were far from the ideal sunny, social scene at the Gunks.

 

(Elena approaching Punta Cigam)

 

Punta Cigan has a variety of routes on it from around IV (5.6) to 7a(5.11c). Since it was super cold and windy, Elena wouldn’t budge on trying a more difficult route. We decided to climb the easier route, Higinios AD IV, in semi-alpine conditions. Higinios ascends the right hand side of the needle and typified an easy alpine climb that feature shattered rock and loose shit everywhere.

 

(Elena climbing the second pitch of Higinios on Punta Cigan. You can see the hut as the small light green spec on the right hand side of the lake.)

 

The climb is two long pitches up wandering terrain. As a note to anyone using this TR for beta, I avoided the offwidth, so my girlfriend wouldn’t hate me, and climbed a loose crack system to it’s right on the first pitch. As with the Hermanitos, I built a rappel station around a chock stone and rapped down the route of our ascent to the base and our packs.

 

Once at the packs we had just enough time for one more route on the needles. The obvious dihedral on Punta Esther was calling our name. Espejismo Sonrosado AD IV follows a very obvious and beautiful dihedral for a full pitch bringing you about thirty meters from the summit.

 

(Punta Esther)

 

(Elena deciding she loves crack climbing)

 

Espejismo Sonrosado was a really nice route with great climbing up a huge dihedral. The exit moves involved pulling a roof on huge jugs to the belay 20 meters below the summit.

 

The descent from Punta Esther is super casual and just involves a little third class down climbing on the backside of the needle.

 

The drive back to Madrid was rather casual. The only thing that I found surprising was the many BMW and Mercedes that were passing me like I was standing still and I was going 90 mph!

 

In general, most of the routes in the Circo De Gredos are fun, short alpine rock climbs with approaches that would not make the average crag climber happy, but are just long enough for a good warm-up in the morning. From what I understand, it is a much better place to come in winter for ice, mixed and alpine climbing.

[Greg_W]

Sweet, dude. I've been wanting to investigate Spanish climbing. My parents live in Banjoles, North of Girona. Nice going.

 

Greg_W

[specialed]

Elene looking stylish as usual.

[Chriznitch]

!bueno! Always nice to see a new spot

[Squid]

Awesome TR! Thanks!

[ashw_justin]

Dang man, I need a European girlfriend who climbs!

[Squid]

Sorry Ash, those are 1-in-a-million odds, and Tim's the one in our million.

[ashw_justin]

Yeah and I think I already used up my odds on the South American girlfriend.

[akunamatata]

Well, I have some single very nice girlfriends in Spain, come for a holiday to visit Tim and I and I will be happy to make the introductions! haha! and by the way, on the second day, it was Tim who slept over due to lack of siesta, not me...liar!

[EWolfe]

Great TR, you guys!

 

E

[Dru]

 

Is any of this alpine-y Spain stuff in season later in the year or is winter in Spain just sunny lowland cragging and cold ice and mixed in the Pyrenees?

[akunamatata]

Dru, the pictures Tim is showing are from end of August. Snow starts to fall in Gredos around November/December, so you can find full winter conditions there including ice in good cold years. As for the rest of Spain, in the south it is not really cold in the winter, so you can rock climb in the sun in January down in Malaga. In the north of Spain you will find ice and snow in the winter. See http://www.escuelasdeescalada.com/, you will find all the good rock climbing areas in Spain, for ice climbing http://desnivel.com/deportes/escalada_en_hielo/.