Dr_Crash Posted September 7, 2004 Posted September 7, 2004 If I want to get one of these very expensive gadgets just to be able to set a rescue anchor in ice, what is a versatile length? I'm looking at the Petzl Laser Sonic and it comes in 10, 13 (short for all purpose?), 17 and 21 cm. (FOTH may recommend a size, I'll check, but it's not around.) TIA! drC Quote
snoboy Posted September 7, 2004 Posted September 7, 2004 Long. Glacier ice can be rottn on top, and it is possible that you will be relying on one screw for an anchor so long is better. It will also allow you to make abalakov anchors (v-threads) should the need arise. Short screws are mostly for waterfall ice climbers looking to save time on placements to beat the pump, or to get in when the ice is too thin for a longer screw. Neither of these things should be a problem in the scenario you are describing. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted September 8, 2004 Author Posted September 8, 2004 How often does someone come with a better ice screw mousetrap? I can either jump on a 25% off sale now, or wait if it makes sense. I won't need the screws until next April/May or so I think. drC Quote
Ponzini Posted September 9, 2004 Posted September 9, 2004 For basic use (ie rescue purposes on glaciers), go for the sale! Express handles are nice but not really needed on easy ice, they're more for leading steep water ice. Omitting the express handle will same a small amount of money and weight. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted September 9, 2004 Author Posted September 9, 2004 Another question for snoboy. "Long:" two 21 cm, two 17 cm, one of each for versatility? What's the best combo? drC Quote
Dru Posted September 9, 2004 Posted September 9, 2004 17 cm is "standard". 21 cm is "long". 21s are a bitch and I never use them for anything but belays or glacier travel. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted September 9, 2004 Author Posted September 9, 2004 (edited) My primary application for now will be being able to anchor on glacier, though I definitely want to do some ice climbing next year. Being that those things are pricey, would 17 cm would work well for both applications? Or do you actually appreciate having your 21 cm for glacier, in which case I may get one of each size? I found this on the Web: "You should carry at least two lengths of screws - medium (about 17cm) for quick placements in good ice, and long (about 22cm) for belays, reaching solid ice deep in curtain and making V-threads for repelling. Some climbers carry super-short (10-12cm) screws for shallow ice." Looks like either 2 long screws or one of each. Can you make V-threads with different screw lengths? drC - Ice screw (and many other things) newbie Edited September 9, 2004 by Dr_Crash Quote
Dru Posted September 9, 2004 Posted September 9, 2004 21 cm is better for abalakovs, deeper is stronger. but you can make an abalakov with one screw, one hole at a time. really i have to say there is no difference between 1x17 and 1x21, or 2x21, except the weight so you might as well get one of each. Quote
fenderfour Posted September 9, 2004 Posted September 9, 2004 Omega pacific makes coffee grinder knobs that will retrofit on most screws. I think they are about $4 each. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted September 9, 2004 Author Posted September 9, 2004 Thanks guys. The Petzl have the handle and hanger already. I've been reading a lot about having two 21 cm screws for anchors (not V-threads, since Dru's one at a time method looks just fine to me), but I'd think a 17 cm and a 21 cm would work well for that too, right? One anchor may not be as bomber, but more versatility... drC Quote
Dru Posted September 9, 2004 Posted September 9, 2004 i only own one 21 and i own about a dozen screws, ok 16 but some are old and useless.... anyways i usually take 2x17 titaniums for glacier walking or whatever so you shouldnt believe anything i say Quote
sobo Posted September 10, 2004 Posted September 10, 2004 Omega pacific makes coffee grinder knobs that will retrofit on most screws. I think they are about $4 each. I bought some of those and retro-fitted them to my old BDs and Smileys, thinking that the "express feature" would be great. IMHO, they suck. They kept coming unscrewed, and superglue didn't help. And they futz up the racking sequence, so I just went back to my old skewl racking system of Trango holster clips and beefed up my screw placement technique so as not to get sketched while placing. FWIW, I carry: 3~17s, 4~13s, 2~10s, and one or two FRPS (irbus) leavers. And whatever my partner shows up with. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted September 12, 2004 Author Posted September 12, 2004 A 21 cm and a 17 cm screws are on the way. Quote
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