Jump to content

Ice screw length?


Dr_Crash

Recommended Posts

If I want to get one of these very expensive gadgets just to be able to set a rescue anchor in ice, what is a versatile length? I'm looking at the Petzl Laser Sonic and it comes in 10, 13 (short for all purpose?), 17 and 21 cm. (FOTH may recommend a size, I'll check, but it's not around.)

 

TIA!

drC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 13
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Long.

 

Glacier ice can be rottn on top, and it is possible that you will be relying on one screw for an anchor blush.gif so long is better.

 

It will also allow you to make abalakov anchors (v-threads) should the need arise.

 

Short screws are mostly for waterfall ice climbers looking to save time on placements to beat the pump, or to get in when the ice is too thin for a longer screw. Neither of these things should be a problem in the scenario you are describing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My primary application for now will be being able to anchor on glacier, though I definitely want to do some ice climbing next year. Being that those things are pricey, would 17 cm would work well for both applications? Or do you actually appreciate having your 21 cm for glacier, in which case I may get one of each size?

 

I found this on the Web: "You should carry at least two lengths of screws - medium (about 17cm) for quick placements in good ice, and long (about 22cm) for belays, reaching solid ice deep in curtain and making V-threads for repelling. Some climbers carry super-short (10-12cm) screws for shallow ice." Looks like either 2 long screws or one of each. Can you make V-threads with different screw lengths?

 

drC - Ice screw (and many other things) newbie

Edited by Dr_Crash
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. The Petzl have the handle and hanger already. I've been reading a lot about having two 21 cm screws for anchors (not V-threads, since Dru's one at a time method looks just fine to me), but I'd think a 17 cm and a 21 cm would work well for that too, right? One anchor may not be as bomber, but more versatility...

 

drC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Omega pacific makes coffee grinder knobs that will retrofit on most screws. I think they are about $4 each.

 

I bought some of those and retro-fitted them to my old BDs and Smileys, thinking that the "express feature" would be great. IMHO, they suck. They kept coming unscrewed, and superglue didn't help. And they futz up the racking sequence, so I just went back to my old skewl racking system of Trango holster clips and beefed up my screw placement technique so as not to get sketched while placing.

 

FWIW, I carry: 3~17s, 4~13s, 2~10s, and one or two FRPS (irbus) leavers. And whatever my partner shows up with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...