jhamaker Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 Intersted in grade II-IV near the rd, 5.10 or less. The main thing is - I don't like heat! The valley was in the 90's this wk I believe. Ideas - tell me it they would be "not too hot" (low 70's Farenhieght would be nice.) Leaving Labor Day for a wk. Taquitze (sp) Suicide Lover's Leap Donner Summit Tuolome Lake Tahoe - where? E side stuff? Bishop area? Quote
larrythellama Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 lovers leap is your best for cooler temps easily 10-15 degrees cooler then the valley. super close to the road. tho it gets quite busy on weekends. also courtwright has alot of good climbing at a high alititude close to the road. as does calaveras dome. donner has alot of good climbing tho it is all quite short. cardnial pinnacle just above the buttermilks is another good option. as well as rock creek above tom's place has some great cragging. pm me as i live down here now. Quote
Off_White Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 Donner is great cragging, and the temps should be fine. Wonderful rock too, though as Larry noted, tends to be single pitch, with the exception of the Black Wall which goes to three. Really good crack climbing. Lovers Leap is a little lower and warmer. Courtright Reservoir on the westside is amazing, sort of like Tuoloumne but on National Forest land and without the people. I climbed there for a week late one season about six years ago and never saw another climber. Here's a picture of Power Dome, you can actually descend in your rock shoes from the car, climb a 5 to 7 pitch route, and walk back down to your car over sandy granite exfoliations. Highly recommended! In terms of areas I haven't been to, what about the Needles? Sequoia/Kings Canyon also has some great stuff. Ditto on Cardinal, it's supposed to be splendid. Quote
clintcummins Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 Tuolumne Meadows and Lover's Leap are best for multipitch under 5.10 and in the shade. Tahquitz could be good as well. It has an uphill approach hike and gets sun, though. Courtright will be too hot - almost all climbs there are in the sun. Calaveras is at the same elevation as Yosemite Valley, so it won't help beat the heat. Most Tahoe areas are single pitch. Donner Summit (Snowshed Wall) is shady, quality, but single pitch. Have fun, Clint Cummins Quote
bigwalling Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 Tuolumne Meadows was so cold when I was there. Stay in the sun and wear sunscrean!!! I wasn't even warm and I burned so bad. I used two sleeping bags at night. Quote
larrythellama Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 i believe suicide and tahquitz might be closed due to high fire danger so you might want to check that out b4 making the drive. Quote
Hal_Burton Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 3rd Pillar of Dana, 45min walk from Tioga Rd. Toulumne is chilly in the shade (last week) and cold at night. Sunny routes are perfect. I got to be ataxia boy when the cold wind caught us unprepared on Cryin' Time. Check out Croft's G.G.A. book for stuff like Cardinal Pinnacle near Bishop. Quote
chelle Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 Lover's Leap would be my suggestion. Awesome climbing and free camping. Donner Summit is good too, but not as much multipitch and I don't think the camping is as good as at the Leap. Quote
mattp Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 The Leap is awesome. Go for the East Wall (5.7). Traveller's Buttress (5.9), and Hospital Corner (5.10). Quote
chelle Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 The Line (5.9) Haystack Crack (5.8) and Bear's Reach (5.7) are all fun too! Quote
billcoe Posted September 1, 2004 Posted September 1, 2004 That's good advice on the leap. Good call. Quote
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